{"id":61642,"date":"2023-04-14T09:00:00","date_gmt":"2023-04-14T07:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/8a.cz\/8academy\/?p=61642"},"modified":"2023-08-25T09:40:00","modified_gmt":"2023-08-25T07:40:00","slug":"chan-tengri-krasny-a-riskantni","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/8a.cz\/8academy\/chan-tengri-krasny-a-riskantni\/","title":{"rendered":"Chan Tengri \u2013 kr\u00e1sn\u00fd a riskantn\u00ed"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Svou v\u00fd\u0161kou nijak nevy\u010dn\u00edv\u00e1 nad vrcholy st\u0159edn\u00ed Asie. Skalnat\u00e9 j\u00e1dro hory se ty\u010d\u00ed do v\u00fd\u0161ky 6995 m n. m., ale s ledovou kupol\u00ed dosahuje v\u00fd\u0161ky 7010 m n. m. Nejde v\u0161ak o v\u00fd\u0161ku. Chan Tengri je pova\u017eov\u00e1n za obt\u00ed\u017en\u00fd a chladn\u00fd vrchol. Je to nejsevern\u011bj\u0161\u00ed sedmitis\u00edcov\u00fd vrchol, vystaven\u00fd v\u011btr\u016fm z \u010d\u00ednsk\u00e9 pou\u0161t\u011b Takla Makan a kaza\u0161sk\u00fdch step\u00ed. Je tak\u00e9 nejvy\u0161\u0161\u00edm vrcholem Kazachst\u00e1nu a sou\u010d\u00e1st\u00ed trofeje Sn\u011b\u017en\u00e9ho leoparda \u2013 p\u011bti nejvy\u0161\u0161\u00edch vrchol\u016f b\u00fdval\u00e9ho Sov\u011btsk\u00e9ho svazu. Ty\u010d\u00ed se kilometr nad okoln\u00edmi masivy a je viditeln\u00fd z d\u00e1lky. D\u00edky sv\u00e9mu jedine\u010dn\u00e9mu tvaru a b\u00edl\u00fdm skal\u00e1m, kter\u00e9 vy\u010dn\u00edvaj\u00ed z okol\u00ed, je ji\u017e po stalet\u00ed zn\u00e1m\u00fd Kazach\u016fm a Ujgur\u016fm, kte\u0159\u00ed dali vrcholu jm\u00e9no. V p\u0159ekladu to znamen\u00e1 “P\u00e1n nebes”. A\u010dkoli je nejvy\u0161\u0161\u00ed v \u0159et\u011bzci \u0164an-\u0160an Pik Pob\u011bdy (\u0160t\u00edt v\u00edt\u011bzstv\u00ed) jej p\u0159ekon\u00e1v\u00e1 o v\u00edce ne\u017e 400 metr\u016f, a samotn\u00fd Chan Tengri je nejni\u017e\u0161\u00edm vrcholem cel\u00e9ho Sn\u011b\u017en\u00e9ho leoparda, obt\u00ed\u017enost z n\u011bj \u010din\u00ed n\u00e1ro\u010dn\u00fd c\u00edl. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Pohled na vrchol Chan Tengri z okol\u00ed z\u00e1kladn\u00edho t\u00e1bora (foto: \u0141ukasz Supergan)<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

Chan Tengri \u2013 druh\u00fd pokus<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

A\u010dkoli je zn\u00e1m\u00fd ji\u017e po stalet\u00ed, nach\u00e1z\u00ed se v nep\u0159\u00edstupn\u00e9m kout\u011b hor, na konci ledovce Inyl\u010dek, jednoho z nejdel\u0161\u00edch na Zemi. N\u011bmeck\u00fd horolezec Gottfried Merzbacher ozna\u010dil horu za “nemo\u017enou k vylezen\u00ed”. Jako prvn\u00ed dos\u00e1hla vrcholu expedice Michaila Pogrebeck\u00e9ho v roce 1931.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Dnes je hora c\u00edlem horolezc\u016f z cel\u00e9ho sv\u011bta, i kdy\u017e ve srovn\u00e1n\u00ed s vy\u0161\u0161\u00edm a jednodu\u0161\u0161\u00edm Pikem Lenina se na ni ka\u017edoro\u010dn\u011b uskute\u010dn\u00ed pom\u011brn\u011b m\u00e1lo v\u00fdstup\u016f. M\u00e1 tvar pyramidy, kter\u00e1 z v\u00fd\u0161ky 6 000 m tvo\u0159\u00ed troj\u00faheln\u00edk z b\u00edl\u00e9ho mramoru. D\u00edky sk\u00e1le p\u0159i v\u00fdchodu a z\u00e1padu slunce z\u00edsk\u00e1v\u00e1 vrchol intenzivn\u00ed \u010dervenou barvu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Poprv\u00e9 jsem se pod Chan Tengri dostal v srpnu 2021. Po v\u00fdstupu na Pik Lenina jsem se pokusil vyu\u017e\u00edt aklimatizaci k rychl\u00e9mu pokusu o v\u00fdstup na druhou sedmitis\u00edcovku. Bohu\u017eel mi do\u0161ly s\u00edly a okno s vhodn\u00fdm po\u010das\u00edm bylo p\u0159\u00edli\u0161 kr\u00e1tk\u00e9. Po \u00fastupu jsem si v\u0161ak sl\u00edbil, \u017ee se vr\u00e1t\u00edm, a v polovin\u011b \u010dervence 2022 jsem se ocitl v hor\u00e1ch Kyrgyzst\u00e1nu, tentokr\u00e1t na ji\u017en\u00ed stran\u011b vrcholu, abych se o to pokusil znovu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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P\u0159en\u00e1\u0161en\u00ed vybaven\u00ed do v\u00fd\u0161kov\u00e9ho t\u00e1bora C1 \u2013 trasa vede po mor\u00e9n\u011b 1-1,5 h pak sestupuje k ledovci Inyl\u010dek (foto \u0141ukasz Supergan)<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

Jak se dostat do Kyrgyzst\u00e1nu<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

O mo\u017enostech dopravy do t\u00e9to zem\u011b jsem ji\u017e hovo\u0159il u p\u0159\u00edle\u017eitosti Piku Lenina. V sou\u010dasn\u00e9 dob\u011b je nejlep\u0161\u00ed let\u011bt do Bi\u0161keku spole\u010dnost\u00ed Pegasus (z V\u00eddn\u011b, Prahy nebo Kodan\u011b). Po p\u0159estupu v Istanbulu p\u0159ist\u00e1v\u00e1me v Bi\u0161keku. Kyrgyzst\u00e1n jako jedin\u00e1 zem\u011b ve st\u0159edn\u00ed Asii nab\u00edz\u00ed \u010cech\u016fm bezv\u00edzov\u00fd styk. Po p\u0159\u00edletu zde obdr\u017e\u00edme povolen\u00ed ke dvoum\u011bs\u00ed\u010dn\u00edmu turistick\u00e9mu pobytu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Z Bi\u0161keku n\u00e1s od z\u00e1kladn\u00edho t\u00e1bora d\u011bl\u00ed dva dny cesty. V sou\u010dasn\u00e9 dob\u011b p\u016fsob\u00ed pod vrcholem jedin\u00e1 agentura Ak Sai Travel, kter\u00e1 vlastn\u00ed dva z\u00e1kladn\u00ed t\u00e1bory (severn\u00ed a ji\u017en\u00ed) a organizuje lety vrtuln\u00edkem.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\"Chan
Chan Tengri \u2013 vrchol p\u0159i z\u00e1padu slunce (foto: \u0141ukasz Supergan)<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

Sm\u011brem k vrcholu<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Pobyt pod Chan Tengri vy\u017eaduje zakoupen\u00ed n\u011bkter\u00e9ho z bal\u00ed\u010dk\u016f. Ten nejv\u00fdhodn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed zahrnuje povolen\u00ed do hrani\u010dn\u00ed z\u00f3ny, auto z Bi\u0161keku na p\u0159ist\u00e1vac\u00ed plochu v Karkaru a dopravu vrtuln\u00edkem do z\u00e1kladn\u00edho t\u00e1bora s povolen\u00fdm zavazadlem o hmotnosti 30 kg. Nocleh v z\u00e1kladn\u00edm t\u00e1bo\u0159e ve vlastn\u00edm stanu, strava na vlastn\u00ed n\u00e1klady. Dra\u017e\u0161\u00ed bal\u00ed\u010dek nab\u00edz\u00ed v\u00fd\u0161e uveden\u00e9, ale bez v\u00e1hov\u00e9ho limitu zavazadel. Nav\u00edc m\u00edsto v jednom ze stan\u016f v z\u00e1kladn\u00edm t\u00e1bo\u0159e a j\u00eddlo z kuchyn\u011b.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I kdy\u017e cena nen\u00ed mal\u00e1, p\u0159ikl\u00e1n\u00edm se k druh\u00e9mu jmenovan\u00e9mu. Stravov\u00e1n\u00ed v z\u00e1kladn\u00edm t\u00e1bo\u0159e a odpo\u010dinek ve velk\u00fdch stanech v\u00e1m umo\u017en\u00ed zotavit se a sn\u00ed\u017e\u00ed mno\u017estv\u00ed j\u00eddla, kter\u00e9 si mus\u00edte vz\u00edt s sebou. Je v\u0161ak d\u016fle\u017eit\u00e9 si uv\u011bdomit, \u017ee nad z\u00e1kladn\u00edm t\u00e1borem ji\u017e mus\u00edte b\u00fdt zcela sob\u011bsta\u010dn\u00ed. Mus\u00edte m\u00edt vlastn\u00ed vysokohorsk\u00fd stan, va\u0159i\u010d a j\u00eddlo.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Z Bi\u0161keku do Karkary pojedete asi 8 hodin, p\u0159es hory a pod\u00e9l b\u0159ehu jezera Issyk-Kul dojedete do mal\u00e9 vesnice na hranic\u00edch s Kazachst\u00e1nem. Odtud ka\u017ed\u00e9 1-2 dny odl\u00e9t\u00e1 vrtuln\u00edk p\u0159epravuj\u00edc\u00ed vybaven\u00ed a lidi na oba z\u00e1kladn\u00ed t\u00e1bory. Ten ji\u017en\u00ed je mnohem v\u011bt\u0161\u00ed a frekventovan\u011bj\u0161\u00ed a zna\u010dn\u00fd po\u010det horolezc\u016f odtud startuje na vrchol. Na severn\u00ed stran\u011b je z\u00e1kladn\u00ed t\u00e1bor men\u0161\u00ed a operuje tam n\u011bkolikan\u00e1sobn\u011b m\u00e9n\u011b lid\u00ed. Let trv\u00e1 40 minut. V z\u00e1kladn\u00edm t\u00e1bo\u0159e se krom\u011b stan\u016f nach\u00e1z\u00ed kuchyn\u011b, j\u00eddelna \u2013 j\u00eddeln\u00ed stan, kter\u00fd je z\u00e1rove\u0148 m\u00edstem setk\u00e1v\u00e1n\u00ed, provizorn\u00ed sauna a stany pro person\u00e1l. V BC je k dispozici satelitn\u00ed internet. Cena v roce 2022 byla 5 USD\/hod.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Vrtuln\u00edk nen\u00ed jedin\u00fdm dopravn\u00edm prost\u0159edkem. Je v\u0161ak jedin\u00fdm, kter\u00fd umo\u017e\u0148uje dos\u00e1hnout Chan Tengri v rozumn\u00e9m \u010dase. Druhou mo\u017enost\u00ed je t\u00fddenn\u00ed trek pod\u00e9l jazyka ledovce Inyl\u010dek.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\"Chan
\u017dlut\u00e9 stany z\u00e1kladn\u00edho t\u00e1bora, na\u0161eho domova na mor\u00e9n\u011b odd\u011bluj\u00edc\u00ed ji\u017en\u00ed ledovec Inyl\u010dek (st\u00e9kaj\u00edc\u00ed z okol\u00ed masivu Chanu) a ledovec Zvezdo\u010dka, st\u00e9kaj\u00edc\u00ed zpod Piku Pob\u011bdy. Z\u00e1kladn\u00ed t\u00e1bor je spole\u010dn\u00fd pro ob\u011b poho\u0159\u00ed. (foto: \u0141ukasz Supergan)<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

V\u00fdstupov\u00e9 cesty<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Na vrchol se lze dostat n\u011bkolika cestami, ale nejobl\u00edben\u011bj\u0161\u00ed jsou dv\u011b: z jihu a ze severu. Ob\u011b se spojuj\u00ed v t\u00e1bo\u0159e 3 v pr\u016fsmyku ve v\u00fd\u0161ce 5800 m. Odtud vede na vrchol z\u00e1padn\u00ed h\u0159eben. Ka\u017ed\u00e1 z nich m\u00e1 jin\u00e9 nebezpe\u010d\u00ed a obt\u00ed\u017enost.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Chan Tengri \u2013 ji\u017en\u00ed cesta<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Jedn\u00e1 se o trasu prvn\u00edch dobyvatel\u016f z roku 1931. Je technicky jednodu\u0161\u0161\u00ed, ale je vystavena lavin\u00e1m padaj\u00edc\u00edm z nedalek\u00e9 velk\u00e9 st\u011bny \u010capajeva. Podle rusk\u00e9 stupnice je hodnocena stupn\u011bm 5A, co\u017e odpov\u00edd\u00e1 TD (velmi obt\u00ed\u017en\u00e1) podle alpsk\u00e9 stupnice – ale jen teoreticky. V praxi p\u0159\u00edtomnost fixn\u00edho lana ve vrcholov\u00e9 kopuli odstra\u0148uje velkou \u010d\u00e1st obt\u00ed\u017enosti v\u00fdstupu, z\u016fst\u00e1vaj\u00ed objektivn\u00ed obt\u00ed\u017ee (trhliny, laviny, v\u00fd\u0161kov\u00e1 expozice) a n\u00e1maha.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ze z\u00e1kladn\u00edho t\u00e1bora ve v\u00fd\u0161ce 4 000 m n. m. mezi vrcholy Chan Tengri a Pikem Pob\u011bdy jsme se vydali po mor\u00e9n\u011b ledovce Ji\u017en\u00ed Inyl\u010dek. Po 60-90 minut\u00e1ch se cesta st\u00e1\u010d\u00ed k ledovci. Zde n\u00e1s \u010dek\u00e1 vyh\u00fdb\u00e1n\u00ed se asi des\u00edtce v\u011bt\u0161\u00edch trhlin, kter\u00e9 jsou v\u0161ak za dobr\u00e9ho po\u010das\u00ed vid\u011bt. Cesta vede do st\u0159edu ledovce, pak se st\u00e1\u010d\u00ed a po sn\u011bhov\u00fdch mostech p\u0159es dv\u011b ledovcov\u00e9 \u0159eky se dost\u00e1v\u00e1me na severn\u00ed okraj ledovce. Odtud je to asi 2 km p\u011b\u0161ky do prvn\u00edho t\u00e1bora C1. T\u00e1bor C1 je n\u00e1horn\u00ed plo\u0161ina ve v\u00fd\u0161ce 4 250 m n. m. Odtud je vid\u011bt velk\u00fd masiv vrcholu \u010capajev a kopule Chan v pozad\u00ed. Cesta k “jedni\u010dce” by m\u011bla trvat 2,5-3 h.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\"Chan
Trasa z t\u00e1bora 1 do t\u00e1bora 2 vede mezi masivy vrchol\u016f \u010capajev (vlevo) a Chan Tengri (vpravo). Strm\u00fd ledovec je hust\u011b pokryt\u00fd trhlinami a z mohutn\u00e9 st\u011bny \u010capajeva pravideln\u011b padaj\u00ed laviny. \u201eDvojka\u201d se nach\u00e1z\u00ed ve v\u00fd\u0161ce 5300 za skaln\u00ed trhlinou. (foto: \u0141ukasz Supergan)<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

Do postupov\u00e9ho t\u00e1bora C2<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Za rozpadem st\u011bny se od Inyl\u010deka odr\u00e1\u017e\u00ed bo\u010dn\u00ed ledovec, kter\u00fd strm\u011b kles\u00e1 \u00fazkou sp\u00e1rou mezi masivem Chan Tengri a vrcholem \u010capajev. Led je strm\u00fd a nad v\u00fd\u0161kou 4400 m za\u010d\u00ednaj\u00ed tak\u00e9 zna\u010dn\u00e9 trhliny. Ve v\u00fd\u0161ce 4900 m za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1 ledop\u00e1d tvo\u0159en\u00fd strm\u00fdmi obrovsk\u00fdmi bloky rozd\u011blen\u00fdmi hlubok\u00fdmi trhlinami. Prostor mezi vrcholy se zu\u017euje a vznik\u00e1 “Bottleneck”, \u00fatvar pojmenovan\u00fd stejn\u011b jako kulo\u00e1r Bottleneck na K2. Z dobr\u00e9ho d\u016fvodu: zde, v \u00fazk\u00e9m prostoru, se cesta dost\u00e1v\u00e1 k ob\u0159\u00ed st\u011bn\u011b \u010capajevova \u0161t\u00edtu, ohro\u017een\u00e9 lavinami.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

M\u00edsto zdol\u00e1vejte rychle, za dobr\u00e9ho po\u010das\u00ed a pouze za tmy (p\u0159ed p\u00e1tou hodinou rann\u00ed). Dv\u011b trag\u00e9die v roce 1993 a jedna v roce 2004 n\u00e1m p\u0159ipom\u00ednaj\u00ed, jak nebezpe\u010dn\u00e9 toto m\u00edsto je. Tehdy lidi jdouc\u00ed na “dvojku” zas\u00e1hla lavina shora. V t\u00e9 prvn\u00ed zahynuli mimo jin\u00e9 dva Pol\u00e1ci. O m\u011bs\u00edc pozd\u011bji v dal\u0161\u00ed lavin\u011b zahynuli \u010dty\u0159i lid\u00e9 z Ruska a Velk\u00e9 Brit\u00e1nie, mezi nimi Valerij Chrzyszczaty, prvn\u00ed zimn\u00ed dobyvatel Chan Tengri. V roce 2004 smetla lavina v seraku des\u00edtky lid\u00ed, z nich\u017e 11 zahynulo.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

V nadmo\u0159sk\u00e9 v\u00fd\u0161ce 5300 m se na m\u00edrn\u00e9 rovin\u011b nach\u00e1z\u00ed “dvojka”. M\u00edsto pojme asi tucet stan\u016f, ale vyplat\u00ed se d\u00e1vat pozor na trhliny pod sn\u011bhem. Na zd\u00e1nliv\u011b bezpe\u010dn\u00e9m m\u00edst\u011b p\u0159ed m\u00fdma o\u010dima odstranil sv\u016fj stan \u00edr\u00e1nsk\u00fd p\u00e1r a teprve pak si uv\u011bdomil, \u017ee pod podl\u00e1\u017ekou z\u00edv\u00e1 \u00fazk\u00e1 bezedn\u00e1 \u0161t\u011brbina. M\u00edsto je v\u0161ak daleko od potenci\u00e1ln\u00ed stopy lavin.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\"C2
T\u00e1bor C2 na Chan Tengri, 5300 m (foto: \u0141ukasz Supergan)<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

Do postupov\u00e9ho t\u00e1bora C3<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Naho\u0159e se ledovec zved\u00e1 a oh\u00fdb\u00e1. P\u0159ed n\u00e1mi se otev\u00edr\u00e1 pohled na pr\u016fsmyk a z d\u00e1lky viditelnou “trojku”. Cestou mus\u00edme p\u0159ekonat jednu velkou trhlinu a v posledn\u00edch 600 metrech strm\u00fd p\u0159\u00edstup ke stan\u016fm v posledn\u00edm t\u00e1bo\u0159e.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Od jihu se “trojka” nach\u00e1z\u00ed na \u00fazk\u00e9m stoup\u00e1n\u00ed pod hlavn\u00edm pr\u016fsmykem. Horolezci p\u0159ich\u00e1zej\u00edc\u00ed ze severu rozbij\u00ed t\u00e1bor v nejni\u017e\u0161\u00edm bod\u011b sedla 5900 m odd\u011bluj\u00edc\u00edho vrchol \u010capajeva a Chan Tengri. Krom\u011b stan\u016f je na svahu pod pr\u016fsmykem n\u011bkolik sn\u011bhov\u00fdch jeskyn\u00ed. Ti, kte\u0159\u00ed jsou aklimatizovan\u00ed a m\u00ed\u0159\u00ed na vrchol, \u010dasto p\u0159ekonaj\u00ed \u00fasek z “jedni\u010dky” na “trojku” najednou, za 8 h. V\u00edce o aklimatizaci a v\u00fd\u0161kov\u00e9 nemoci p\u0159e\u010dt\u011bte v \u010dl\u00e1nku o v\u00fd\u0161kov\u00e9 nemoci<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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T\u00e1bor C3 pod pr\u016fsmykem, 5850 m. V d\u00e1lce je vid\u011bt vrchol Piku Pob\u011bdy (7439 m) a jeho dlouh\u00fd, velmi obt\u00ed\u017en\u00fd a exponovan\u00fd h\u0159eben. (foto: \u0141ukasz Supergan)<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

Chan Tengri \u2013 severn\u00ed cesta<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Ze severn\u00ed strany vede obt\u00ed\u017en\u011bj\u0161\u00ed trasa, kter\u00e1 odv\u00e1\u017en\u011b stoup\u00e1 na \u010capajev\u016fv pil\u00ed\u0159. Je sice strm\u00e1 a na n\u011bkolika m\u00edstech technick\u00e1 (mixov\u00e9 \u00faseky, s fixn\u00edm lanem, ale n\u00e1ro\u010dn\u00e9), ale nen\u00ed ohro\u017eena lavinami. P\u0159i lezen\u00ed zde jste v\u0161ak neust\u00e1le v expozici. P\u0159\u00edtomnost fixn\u00edch lan by m\u011bla zajistit bezpe\u010dnost. M\u016fj pokus o v\u00fdstup v roce 2021 v\u0161ak uk\u00e1zal, \u017ee pil\u00ed\u0159 vy\u017eaduje skaln\u00ed a sn\u011bhov\u00e9 lezeck\u00e9 dovednosti a zvl\u00e1dnut\u00ed cep\u00edn\u016f. Chyba p\u0159i nacvaknut\u00ed do dal\u0161\u00edho \u00faseku lana je podle m\u00e9ho n\u00e1zoru hlavn\u00ed p\u0159\u00ed\u010dinou nehod na severn\u00ed cest\u011b. Pokud zde ud\u011bl\u00e1te chybu, let\u00edte minim\u00e1ln\u011b n\u011bkolik set metr\u016f a zabrzdit se cep\u00ednem je mo\u017en\u00e9 jen velmi z\u0159\u00eddka. Jedin\u00e1 smrteln\u00e1 nehoda v sez\u00f3n\u011b 2022 se stala pr\u00e1v\u011b tudy nad t\u00e1borem C2.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Na severu jsou t\u00e1bory: C1 ve v\u00fd\u0161ce 4700 m a C2 ve v\u00fd\u0161ce 5500 m. Mezi nimi stoup\u00e1me po \u00fazk\u00e9m pil\u00ed\u0159i, \u010dasto se stovkami metr\u016f vzduchu pod n\u00e1mi. Zasn\u011b\u017een\u00e9 \u00faseky jsou odd\u011bleny svisl\u00fdmi skaln\u00edmi zlomy, kde je nutn\u00e9 obratn\u00e9 lezen\u00ed na mal\u00fdch stupech s ma\u010dkami. Pil\u00ed\u0159 \u010capajeva vy\u017eaduje s\u00edlu v rukou a p\u0159ipad\u00e1 mi mnohem \u00fanavn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed ne\u017e ji\u017en\u00ed strana. I kdy\u017e jsem dob\u0159e aklimatizovan\u00fd, nedok\u00e1zal jsem z “jedni\u010dky” sko\u010dit p\u0159\u00edmo na “trojku”. Cesta vede do v\u00fd\u0161ky 6150 m, na severn\u00ed vrchol masivu \u010capajeva. Odtud se strm\u00fdm sestupem (instalovan\u00fd \u017eeb\u0159\u00edk) dostanete do pr\u016fsmyku.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Severn\u00ed trasa se vyzna\u010duje obt\u00ed\u017enost\u00ed 5B (alpsk\u00e1 ED \u2013 extr\u00e9mn\u011b obt\u00ed\u017en\u00e1). I zde v\u0161ak lana usnad\u0148uj\u00ed lezeck\u00e9 \u00faseky a v\u00fdstup je podm\u00edn\u011bn velmi dobrou fyzickou kondic\u00ed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

 <\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"\"
T\u00e1bor C3 na Chan Tengri. Nad n\u00e1mi v\u00fdstup do pr\u016fsmyku, mezi mraky skaln\u00ed a sn\u011bhov\u00e9 \u017eebro tvo\u0159\u00edc\u00ed cestu na vrchol (foto: \u0141ukasz Supergan)<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

Chan Tengri \u2013 cesta na vrchol<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Z t\u00e1bora C3 vede na vrchol skaln\u00ed a sn\u011bhov\u00e9 \u017eebro ohodnocen\u00e9 stupn\u011bm 5A. Na vrchol vede 1 100 metr\u016f dlouh\u00fd p\u0159\u00edstup. P\u0159\u00edstup je zpo\u010d\u00e1tku m\u00edrn\u00fd, ale po 20 min za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1 stoupat sekvenc\u00ed 10-20m skaln\u00edch prah\u016f. Ty brzy p\u0159ejdou ve skaln\u00ed a sn\u011bhov\u00fd pil\u00ed\u0159 se sklonem asi 45 stup\u0148\u016f. Cesta vede p\u0159ev\u00e1\u017en\u011b po prav\u00e9 stran\u011b kulminace, m\u00edsty p\u0159ech\u00e1z\u00ed p\u0159es sr\u00e1z severn\u00ed st\u011bny. Expozice je m\u00edsty vysok\u00e1. P\u0159i zku\u0161enostech se zimn\u00edm lezen\u00edm v Tatr\u00e1ch a obratn\u00e9 manipulaci s lanem se nesetk\u00e1te s v\u011bt\u0161\u00edmi technick\u00fdmi obt\u00ed\u017eemi ne\u017e UIAA IV-V. Nezapome\u0148te v\u0161ak: v\u0161e se odehr\u00e1v\u00e1 za \u00fasvitu, p\u0159i teplot\u011b -25 stup\u0148\u016f Celsia, ve v\u00fd\u0161ce 6,5 kilometru. Udr\u017eujte si koncentraci a dob\u0159e odhadn\u011bte sv\u00e9 s\u00edly.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

T\u00e1bor C4?<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Ve v\u00fd\u0161ce 6 400 m najdete plo\u0161inu \u2013 jedn\u00e1 se o n\u011bkdy pou\u017e\u00edvan\u00fd t\u00e1bor C4 s m\u00edstem pro 3 stany. N\u011bkte\u0159\u00ed lid\u00e9 odtud startuj\u00ed na vrchol, \u010d\u00edm\u017e si zkracuj\u00ed vrcholov\u00fd den. V\u00fd\u0161e cesta sm\u011b\u0159uje skrz sk\u00e1ly a sn\u00edh k velk\u00e9mu kolm\u00e9mu prahu (cca 6 700 m). Nad n\u00edm p\u0159ekon\u00e1v\u00e1 sn\u011bhov\u00fd kulo\u00e1r. Na vrcholu kulo\u00e1ru je t\u0159eba odbo\u010dit doleva a stoup\u00e1n\u00edm mezi skalami se dostat na rozs\u00e1hl\u00e1 sn\u011bhov\u00e1 pole. Zde obt\u00ed\u017enost lezen\u00ed kon\u010d\u00ed, ale n\u00e1maha nikoli. Nejv\u00edce m\u011b zpomaloval sn\u00edh pod vrcholem, kde jsem bojoval o ka\u017ed\u00fdch 10 metr\u016f. O n\u011bco leh\u010d\u00edm, ale st\u00e1le sva\u017eit\u00fdm ter\u00e9nem vede cesta k mal\u00fdm skal\u00e1m. O p\u00e1r des\u00edtek metr\u016f d\u00e1l spat\u0159\u00edte rozlehlou b\u00edlou plochu a na n\u00ed stoj\u00edc\u00ed hlin\u00edkovou trojno\u017eku s k\u0159\u00ed\u017eem a vlajkami.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Vrchol a sestup<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Konec cesty je symbolick\u00fdm bodem ve v\u00fd\u0161ce p\u0159ibli\u017en\u011b 6985 m. Principi\u00e1ln\u00ed vrchol je vzd\u00e1len asi 100 m, ale hlavn\u00ed vrchol je obklopen velk\u00fdmi p\u0159evisy a v\u00fdstup na nejvy\u0161\u0161\u00ed bod je nebezpe\u010dn\u00fd. V\u00fdstup jsem ukon\u010dil t\u011bsn\u011b p\u0159ed nejvy\u0161\u0161\u00edm bodem, kdy\u017e GPS na m\u00fdch hodink\u00e1ch ukazovala v\u00edce ne\u017e 7010m n. m.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

P\u0159i sestupu je sla\u0148ov\u00e1n\u00ed a p\u0159ehazov\u00e1n\u00ed mezi lany zdlouhav\u00e9 a sestup nemus\u00ed b\u00fdt rychl\u00fd. Je d\u016fle\u017eit\u00e9 m\u00edt i p\u0159es \u00fanavu neust\u00e1le pod kontrolou, co d\u011bl\u00e1te. Je\u0161t\u011b jednou: chyba p\u0159i p\u0159ip\u00edn\u00e1n\u00ed fixn\u00edho lana v\u00e1s m\u016f\u017ee st\u00e1t \u017eivot. Zkontrolujte si sv\u00e9 vybaven\u00ed a zkontrolujte, do kter\u00e9ho lana se p\u0159ip\u00edn\u00e1te, a vyberte si jen to nejnov\u011bj\u0161\u00ed. Z C3 do z\u00e1kladn\u00edho t\u00e1bora je sestup ji\u017e rychl\u00fd a za dobr\u00fdch podm\u00ednek bude trvat 6 hodin. Za \u0161patn\u00fdch podm\u00ednek, p\u0159i sn\u011b\u017een\u00ed, se z n\u011bj st\u00e1v\u00e1 loterie.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

 <\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"\"
Na vrcholu \u2013 mraky, ale “aspo\u0148 nefouk\u00e1” (foto: \u0141ukasz Supergan)<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

Chan Tengri \u2013 jak\u00e9 vybaven\u00ed?<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

P\u0159i cest\u011b na Chan Tengri m\u011bjte vybaven\u00ed vhodn\u00e9 do \u0161patn\u00fdch podm\u00ednek. To znamen\u00e1 vysokohorsk\u00fd stan nebo robustn\u00ed celoro\u010dn\u00ed stan s vysokou odolnost\u00ed proti v\u011btru. K tomu dob\u0159e izoluj\u00edc\u00ed karimatku a spac\u00ed pytel, kter\u00fd v\u00e1m poskytne pohodl\u00ed p\u0159i teplot\u00e1ch kolem -20 stup\u0148\u016f. P\u0159i kempov\u00e1n\u00ed bude nezbytnost\u00ed v\u00fdkonn\u00fd va\u0159i\u010d. Vezm\u011bte si tak\u00e9 lopatu na vykop\u00e1n\u00ed m\u00edsta pro stan.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Na chladn\u00e9 sedmitis\u00edcovce budou nezbytn\u00e9 horolezeck\u00e9 boty<\/a> s boti\u010dkou. Pom\u011brn\u011b dost horolezc\u016f vol\u00ed na Chan Tengri modely La Sportiva G2<\/a> a La Sportiva Olympus Mons, Zamberlan 8000, Millet Everest. J\u00e1 s\u00e1m pou\u017e\u00edv\u00e1m velmi tepl\u00e9 boty Olympus Mons, vhodn\u00e9 pro v\u00fdstupy na osmitis\u00edcovky, a velmi si jich cen\u00edm. Nepokou\u0161ejte se o v\u00fdstup na Chan Tengri v oby\u010dejn\u00fdch bot\u00e1ch.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Cep\u00edn<\/a>, ma\u010dky<\/a> a trekov\u00e9 hole<\/a> budou povinn\u00e9. Pro ji\u0161t\u011bn\u00ed na ledovci a v\u00fd\u0161e – lano<\/a>, sedac\u00ed \u00favazek<\/a>, helma, ledovcov\u00e9 \u0161rouby, smy\u010dky, osmi\u010dka pro sla\u0148ov\u00e1n\u00ed (nedoporu\u010duji kybl\u00edk) a blokanty. P\u00ed\u0161u “blokanty”, proto\u017ee je velmi dobr\u00e9 pou\u017e\u00edt dva blokanty na lanov\u00e9m z\u00e1bradl\u00ed. Pokud je to nutn\u00e9, odepnut\u00edm p\u0159\u00edstroje z\u00edsk\u00e1me klasickou brzdu s karabinou pro p\u0159ipnut\u00ed na stanovi\u0161t\u011b. Pro ochranu obli\u010deje budou nezbytn\u00e9 br\u00fdle se skly SP4 a v p\u0159\u00edpad\u011b siln\u00e9ho v\u011btru doporu\u010duji tak\u00e9 ly\u017ea\u0159sk\u00e9 br\u00fdle<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Pozornost v\u011bnujte tak\u00e9 rukavic\u00edm. B\u011bhem v\u00fdstupu jsem m\u011bl na sob\u011b 3 p\u00e1ry (!), krom\u011b p\u00e9\u0159ov\u00fdch pal\u010d\u00e1k\u016f<\/a> v batohu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

N\u011bkolik hodin z “trojky” na vrchol a zp\u011bt je velk\u00e1 n\u00e1maha. P\u0159ijm\u011bte hodn\u011b kalori\u00ed, ale sp\u00ed\u0161e v lehce straviteln\u00e9 form\u011b \u2013 spalov\u00e1n\u00ed tuk\u016f ve v\u00fd\u0161ce je velmi pomal\u00e9. Sladkosti, sladk\u00e1 \u010dokol\u00e1da, energetick\u00e9 ty\u010dinky a gely. Nezapom\u00ednejte na hydrataci: v m\u00e9m p\u0159\u00edpad\u011b je 2,5 litru minimum, kter\u00e9 si na podobn\u00fd vrchol vezmu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Poji\u0161t\u011bn\u00ed<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Nenechte se chytit do pasti. N\u011bkter\u00e1 horsk\u00e1 poji\u0161t\u011bn\u00ed v t\u011bchto nadmo\u0159sk\u00fdch v\u00fd\u0161k\u00e1ch nefunguj\u00ed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

 <\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"Bivak
Bivak ve “dvojce”, 5300 m (foto: \u0141ukasz Supergan)<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

Od sebe<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

M\u016fj v\u00fdstup na vrchol byl velkou lekc\u00ed. Po posledn\u00ed aklimatiza\u010dn\u00ed cest\u011b na “trojku” a n\u00e1vratu do z\u00e1kladn\u00edho t\u00e1bora jsem zkontroloval p\u0159edpov\u011bdi. K m\u00e9mu p\u0159ekvapen\u00ed byl nejlep\u0161\u00edm dnem pro v\u00fdstup na vrchol poz\u00edt\u0159\u00ed. Dal\u0161\u00ed okno s vhodn\u00fdm po\u010das\u00edm m\u011blo b\u00fdt a\u017e za 10 dn\u00ed. Toho dal\u0161\u00edho jsem nem\u011bl \u0161anci vyu\u017e\u00edt, ale n\u00e1sleduj\u00edc\u00ed den jsem vyrazil a v noci z 8. na 9. srpna jsem dos\u00e1hl vrcholu. Nedostatek regenerace si vybral svou da\u0148. V\u00fdstup na vrchol trval dobr\u00fdch 13 hodin, ale sestup dlouh\u00fdch 8 hodin.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Druh\u00fd den jsem u\u017e nem\u011bl s\u00edlu na sestup. Po\u010dkal jsem do n\u00e1sleduj\u00edc\u00ed noci a 10. srpna jsem vy\u0161el ve sn\u011bhov\u00e9 v\u00e1nici a s metrem sn\u011bhu pokr\u00fdvaj\u00edc\u00edm ledovec. Trhliny zmizely, \u010d\u00edm\u017e jsem se vystavil riziku. V “l\u00e1hvi” ka\u017ed\u00fdch p\u00e1r minut hu\u010dely laviny. V\u011bd\u011bl jsem, \u017ee mus\u00edm z\u016fstat ve “dvojce” a \u010dekat \u2013 pochodovat dol\u016f znamenalo sebevra\u017edu. Na\u0161t\u011bst\u00ed jsem ve “dvojce” potkal t\u00fdm asi tuctu lid\u00ed, se kter\u00fdmi jsme p\u0159e\u010dkali sr\u00e1\u017eky, a ve\u010der jsme zah\u00e1jili sestup, prod\u00edraj\u00edc\u00ed se hlubok\u00fdm sn\u011bhem po strm\u00e9m ledovci. To v\u0161e uprost\u0159ed propastn\u00fdch trhlin a ve vysok\u00e9m lavinov\u00e9m nebezpe\u010d\u00ed. M\u00edsto dvou hodin trval sestup k “jedni\u010dce” sedm a zcela m\u011b vy\u010derpal. Je\u0161t\u011b nikdy jsem nebyl po sestupu z \u017e\u00e1dn\u00e9 hory tak unaven\u00fd jako na Ch\u00e1n Tengri.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

 <\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"Z\u00e1pad
Z\u00e1pad slunce nad ledovcem Inyl\u010dek (foto: Lukasz Supergan)<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

M\u016fj p\u0159\u00edpad mi d\u016frazn\u011b uk\u00e1zal, jak d\u016fle\u017eit\u00e9 je p\u0159izp\u016fsobit se p\u0159edpov\u011bdi po\u010das\u00ed a d\u00e1t si p\u0159i sestupu velkou rezervu sil. Chan Tengri je n\u00e1ro\u010dn\u00e1 hora, kter\u00e1 vy\u017eaduje schopnost l\u00e9zt ve skalnat\u00e9m a zasn\u011b\u017een\u00e9m ter\u00e9nu, pohybovat se na ledovci, t\u00e1bo\u0159it a p\u0159e\u017e\u00edt v krut\u00fdch mrazech, odhodl\u00e1n\u00ed a motivaci a tak\u00e9 dobr\u00fd pocit ze sv\u00fdch sil. Ten je tak\u00e9 nezbytn\u00fd k tomu, aby se \u010dlov\u011bk ve spr\u00e1vn\u00fd okam\u017eik zastavil nebo oto\u010dil. Nakonec, jak \u0159ekl him\u00e1lajsk\u00fd horolezec Ed Viesturs, vrchol je nepovinn\u00e1 z\u00e1le\u017eitost. Povinn\u00fd je n\u00e1vrat dol\u016f.<\/p>\n\n\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

\u201eMal\u00e1 K2\u201d. Tak se n\u011bkdy naz\u00fdv\u00e1 vrchol ty\u010d\u00edc\u00ed se nad rozlehl\u00fdm \u0159et\u011bzcem \u0164an-\u0160an na rozhran\u00ed kyrgyzsko-kazachst\u00e1nsk\u00fdch a \u010d\u00ednsk\u00fdch hranic. Vrchol vysok\u00fd n\u011bco m\u00e1lo p\u0159es 7 000 metr\u016f l\u00e1k\u00e1 n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvn\u00edky svou eleganc\u00ed a jeho vrcholov\u00e1 kopule je skute\u010dn\u011b p\u0159\u00edkladem “ide\u00e1ln\u00ed” hory, kter\u00e1 se svou kr\u00e1sou \u0159ad\u00ed po bok Matterhornu, K2 nebo Alpamayo.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":15,"featured_media":61678,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[26080],"tags":[26092,462,25],"class_list":["post-61642","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-alpinismus","tag-alpinismus","tag-leto","tag-pruvodce"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nChan Tengri - kr\u00e1sn\u00fd a riskantn\u00ed | 8academy<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Chan Tengri - \u0141ukasz Supergan z Team8a vypr\u00e1v\u00ed o expedici na legend\u00e1rn\u00ed vrchol, kter\u00fd je sou\u010d\u00e1st\u00ed Sn\u011b\u017en\u00e9ho leoparda.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/8a.cz\/8academy\/chan-tengri-krasny-a-riskantni\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"cs_CZ\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Chan Tengri \u2013 kr\u00e1sn\u00fd a riskantn\u00ed\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Chan Tengri - 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