{"id":52419,"date":"2023-03-17T09:00:00","date_gmt":"2023-03-17T08:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/8a.pl\/8academy\/?p=52419"},"modified":"2023-08-25T10:08:08","modified_gmt":"2023-08-25T08:08:08","slug":"co-je-vyskove-horolezectvi","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/8a.cz\/8academy\/co-je-vyskove-horolezectvi\/","title":{"rendered":"Co je v\u00fd\u0161kov\u00e9 horolezectv\u00ed?"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p>Za\u010dn\u011bme definic\u00ed. Abych ji na\u0161el, pro\u0161el jsem v\u0161echny knihy, kter\u00e9 m\u00e1m doma. A co? Nic. Nena\u0161el jsem jedinou, ve kter\u00e9 by se tato definice nach\u00e1zela. Jak\u00fd je z\u00e1v\u011br? Jedn\u00e1 se o nov\u00fd pojem, nebo o n\u011bjakou um\u011blotinu vytvo\u0159enou v posledn\u00ed dob\u011b? To nev\u00edm a nen\u00ed to p\u0159edm\u011btem tohoto \u010dl\u00e1nku. Zkusme tedy tuto definici naj\u00edt tam, kde ji pravd\u011bpodobn\u011b hled\u00e1 ka\u017ed\u00fd, tedy na internetu. Proto\u017ee pokud tam nen\u00ed, nen\u00ed nikde k nalezen\u00ed. To, co jsem na\u0161el, je uvedeno n\u00ed\u017ee.&nbsp; Za\u010dnu \u010dl\u00e1nkem Michala Apolla s n\u00e1zvem. &#8220;V\u00fd\u0161kov\u00e9 horolezectv\u00ed, nejvy\u0161\u0161\u00ed forma vysokohorsk\u00e9 turistiky \u2013 mnohotv\u00e1rn\u00fd fenom\u00e9n&#8221;. V t\u00e9to publikaci nach\u00e1z\u00edm tuto v\u011btu:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>\u201e<strong>V\u00fd\u0161kov\u00e9 horolezectv\u00ed<\/strong>&nbsp;(b\u011b\u017en\u011b zn\u00e1m\u00e9 jako horolezectv\u00ed) je druh \u010dinnosti provozovan\u00e9 ve velehor\u00e1ch, spo\u010d\u00edvaj\u00edc\u00ed ve zdol\u00e1v\u00e1n\u00ed horsk\u00fdch vrchol\u016f, \u010dasto s p\u0159ekon\u00e1v\u00e1n\u00edm zna\u010dn\u00fdch obt\u00ed\u017e\u00ed. Tato \u010dinnost je doprov\u00e1zena vysok\u00fdm objektivn\u00edm nebezpe\u010d\u00edm spojen\u00fdm s kontaktem s obt\u00ed\u017en\u00fdm horsk\u00fdm ter\u00e9nem, obvykle v drsn\u00fdch klimatick\u00fdch podm\u00ednk\u00e1ch a \u010dasto v m\u00edstech vzd\u00e1len\u00fdch od lidsk\u00fdch s\u00eddel&#8221;.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Wikipedie to zase uv\u00e1d\u00ed takto:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>\u201e<strong>V\u00fd\u0161kov\u00e9 horolezectv\u00ed<\/strong> \u2013\u00a0je druhem horolezectv\u00ed \u010di alpinismu, kdy na v\u00fdkon horolezce p\u016fsob\u00ed krom\u011b v\u00fdzev dan\u00fdch samotn\u00fdm horolezeck\u00fdm ter\u00e9nem tak\u00e9 mimo\u0159\u00e1dn\u00e9 p\u0159ek\u00e1\u017eky dan\u00e9 pobytem ve vysok\u00e9 nadmo\u0159sk\u00e9 v\u00fd\u0161ce\u201d.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img fetchpriority=\"high\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"600\" height=\"900\" src=\"https:\/\/8a.pl\/8academy\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/IMG_1286.jpg\" alt=\"horolezectv\u00ed\" class=\"wp-image-52489\" srcset=\"https:\/\/8a.cz\/8academy\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/IMG_1286.jpg 600w, https:\/\/8a.cz\/8academy\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/IMG_1286-200x300.jpg 200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Cesta k nejvy\u0161\u0161\u00edm vrchol\u016fm z\u00e1vis\u00ed na tom, v jak\u00e9 f\u00e1zi horolezeck\u00e9 kari\u00e9ry se nach\u00e1z\u00edte (foto: Marmot \u2013 Piotr Pustelnik)<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"h-vyskove-horolezectvi-pro-koho\">V\u00fd\u0161kov\u00e9 horolezectv\u00ed \u2013 pro koho?<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>Tak n\u011bco se u\u017e formuje i pro n\u00e1s. Jak za\u010d\u00edt sv\u00e9 dobrodru\u017estv\u00ed s v\u00fd\u0161kov\u00fdm horolezectv\u00edm z\u00e1vis\u00ed na tom, kde se nach\u00e1z\u00edte ve sv\u00e9 horolezeck\u00e9 kari\u00e9\u0159e. Jste velmi pokro\u010dil\u00fd turista, kter\u00e9ho u\u017e nebav\u00ed chodit po st\u00e1le obt\u00ed\u017en\u011bj\u0161\u00edch a del\u0161\u00edch cest\u00e1ch a hled\u00e1 n\u011bco v\u00edc? Jste lezec, kter\u00fd tak\u00e9 hled\u00e1 sv\u00e9 m\u00edsto v hor\u00e1ch? Nebo mo\u017en\u00e1 je\u0161t\u011b nev\u00edte, co chcete, a hory jsou jen krajinou, kter\u00e1 v\u00e1m zrychluje tep, a je to prost\u0159ed\u00ed, ve kter\u00e9m se chcete realizovat? Docela h\u00e1danka, proto\u017ee podle toho, kdo jste, je v\u00fdchoz\u00ed bod pro zdol\u00e1v\u00e1n\u00ed vysok\u00fdch hor r\u016fzn\u00fd. Za\u010dn\u011bme tedy od toho, \u010demu \u0159\u00edk\u00e1me &#8220;absolutn\u00ed nula&#8221;, od t\u00e9 t\u0159et\u00ed mo\u017enosti.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"h-jak-zacit-s-vyskovym-horolezectvim\">Jak za\u010d\u00edt s v\u00fd\u0161kov\u00fdm horolezectv\u00edm?<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>Proto\u017ee &#8220;v\u00fd\u0161kov\u00e9 horolezectv\u00ed&#8221; m\u00e1 v n\u00e1zvu slovo &#8220;horolezectv\u00ed&#8221;, znamen\u00e1 to, \u017ee se mus\u00edte nau\u010dit l\u00e9zt. S t\u00edm v\u00e1m pomohou instrukto\u0159i. Nejd\u0159\u00edve lezen\u00ed po skal\u00e1ch, pak horolezectv\u00ed a nakonec alpinismus. Budete se muset nau\u010dit techniky lezen\u00ed a ji\u0161t\u011bn\u00ed, budov\u00e1n\u00ed jist\u00edc\u00edch stanovi\u0161\u0165, lezen\u00ed jako prvolezec na jedno- a v\u00edced\u00e9lkov\u00fdch cest\u00e1ch, techniky sla\u0148ov\u00e1n\u00ed a sebeji\u0161t\u011bn\u00ed.&nbsp; Je toho hodn\u011b, \u017ee? Ale je to nezbytn\u00fd z\u00e1klad k p\u0159em\u00fd\u0161len\u00ed o tom, co d\u011blat d\u00e1l.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Jak vypadala moje cesta? P\u0159ihl\u00e1sil jsem se do vysokohorsk\u00e9ho klubu, absolvoval kurz pro za\u010d\u00e1te\u010dn\u00edky, tedy kurz skaln\u00edho lezen\u00ed (v m\u00e9m p\u0159\u00edpad\u011b to byl Jura). Pak jsem byl na letn\u00edm tatransk\u00e9m kurzu&nbsp; a nakonec na zimn\u00edm kurzu. Potom jsem lezl mnoho sez\u00f3n v Tatr\u00e1ch v l\u00e9t\u011b i v zim\u011b. Nau\u010dil jsem se chodit v&nbsp;<a href=\"https:\/\/8a.cz\/macky\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">ma\u010dk\u00e1ch<\/a>, pou\u017e\u00edvat <a href=\"https:\/\/8a.cz\/cepiny\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">cep\u00edn<\/a>, jist\u00edc\u00ed pom\u016fcky ve sn\u011bhu, zmrzl\u00e9 tr\u00e1v\u011b a ledu. Chv\u00edli trvalo, ne\u017e jsem za\u010dal p\u0159em\u00fd\u0161let o jin\u00fdch hor\u00e1ch, tedy vy\u0161\u0161\u00edch ne\u017e Tatry.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"600\" height=\"900\" src=\"https:\/\/8a.pl\/8academy\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/DM_STLABS_Cazzanelli-Ratti-Grandes-Murailles_20200122_01281.jpg\" alt=\"v\u00fd\u0161kov\u00e9 horolezectv\u00ed\" class=\"wp-image-52495\" srcset=\"https:\/\/8a.cz\/8academy\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/DM_STLABS_Cazzanelli-Ratti-Grandes-Murailles_20200122_01281.jpg 600w, https:\/\/8a.cz\/8academy\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/DM_STLABS_Cazzanelli-Ratti-Grandes-Murailles_20200122_01281-200x300.jpg 200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Prvn\u00ed krok k v\u00fd\u0161kov\u00e9mu lezen\u00ed \u2013 nau\u010dit se jistit a pou\u017e\u00edvat zimn\u00ed vybaven\u00ed (foto: Salewa)<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"h-alpy\">Alpy<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>Chcete-li p\u0159em\u00fd\u0161let o v\u00fd\u0161kov\u00e9m horolezectv\u00ed, kde vl\u00e1dne sn\u00edh, led a sm\u00ed\u0161en\u00fd ter\u00e9n a ledovce jsou tu v\u017edy a jsou dlouh\u00e9, \u0161irok\u00e9 a hlubok\u00e9, bude dobr\u00e9 l\u00e9zt v Alp\u00e1ch. Jsou bl\u00edzko a dostupn\u00e9 po v\u011bt\u0161inu roku. Tak\u017ee jakmile se v Tatr\u00e1ch c\u00edt\u00edte jist\u011b kdykoli b\u011bhem roku na cest\u00e1ch, kter\u00e9 jsou z hlediska obt\u00ed\u017enosti n\u011bco kolem 80 % t\u011bch obt\u00ed\u017enost\u00ed, kter\u00e9 proch\u00e1z\u00edte ve skal\u00e1ch, je to znamen\u00ed, \u017ee jste p\u0159ipraveni jet do Alp. Pro za\u010d\u00e1tek bych doporu\u010dil Rakousk\u00e9 Alpy (nap\u0159. Vysok\u00e9 Taury) nebo v Gran Paradiso, ne\u017e rovnou Dauphin\u00e9sk\u00e9 Alpy. Proto\u017ee techniku ch\u016fze v ma\u010dk\u00e1ch se sn\u00e1ze nau\u010d\u00edte v ter\u00e9nu, kde v\u00e1m smrt nehled\u00ed do tv\u00e1\u0159e. Kde nejsou svahy tak strm\u00e9, aby uklouznut\u00ed hrozilo dlouh\u00fdm p\u00e1dem, a kde jsou ledovcov\u00e9 trhliny vz\u00e1cn\u00e9 a nep\u0159\u00edli\u0161 \u0161irok\u00e9.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"h-zvykani-si-na-vysky\">Zvyk\u00e1n\u00ed si na v\u00fd\u0161ky<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p>Jakmile pro v\u00e1s ch\u016fze v ma\u010dk\u00e1ch p\u0159estane b\u00fdt probl\u00e9mem, m\u016f\u017eete se vydat do Alp, do t\u011bch ve Francii, It\u00e1lii nebo \u0160v\u00fdcarsku. Ale ani tady se netla\u010dte hned na severn\u00ed st\u011bnu Grand Jorasses, ale tr\u00e9nujte na&nbsp;ledovci, nap\u0159. techniku vypro\u0161t\u011bn\u00ed z ledovcov\u00e9 trhliny, do kter\u00e9 m\u016f\u017eete (ale nemus\u00edte &#8211; co\u017e v\u00e1m p\u0159eji) v budoucnu spadnout. Je lep\u0161\u00ed v\u011bd\u011bt, jak z toho ven. Pak se netla\u010dte d\u00e1l na ty ne\u0161\u0165astn\u00e9 Jorasses, ale vylezte na <a href=\"https:\/\/8a.cz\/8academy\/mont-blanc-jak-vylezt-na-strechu-vropy\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Mont Blanc<\/a> norm\u00e1ln\u00ed cestou. Pro\u010d? Proto\u017ee nev\u00edte, jak va\u0161e t\u011blo snese nadmo\u0159skou v\u00fd\u0161ku, ve kter\u00e9 budete operovat. V\u00fd\u0161kov\u00e9 horolezectv\u00ed v kombinaci se zvracen\u00edm kv\u016fli v\u00fd\u0161kov\u00e9 slabosti nen\u00ed nejlep\u0161\u00ed n\u00e1pad.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"600\" height=\"900\" src=\"https:\/\/8a.pl\/8academy\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/DM_STLABS_Cazzanelli-Ratti-Grandes-Murailles_20200122_02894.jpg\" alt=\"V\u00fd\u0161kov\u00e9 horolezectv\u00ed\" class=\"wp-image-52494\" srcset=\"https:\/\/8a.cz\/8academy\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/DM_STLABS_Cazzanelli-Ratti-Grandes-Murailles_20200122_02894.jpg 600w, https:\/\/8a.cz\/8academy\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/DM_STLABS_Cazzanelli-Ratti-Grandes-Murailles_20200122_02894-200x300.jpg 200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Alpy v\u00e1m umo\u017en\u00ed zvyknout si na nadmo\u0159skou v\u00fd\u0161ku, expozici a sn\u011bhov\u00fd a ledov\u00fd ter\u00e9n (foto: Salewa)<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n<p>Ve sv\u00e9 prvn\u00ed sez\u00f3n\u011b v Alp\u00e1ch jsem se vyd\u00e1val na jednoduch\u00e9, nen\u00e1ro\u010dn\u00e9 cesty ve velehor\u00e1ch, abych zjistil, zda a jak rychle se aklimatizuji. Nakonec p\u0159i\u0161el \u010das na ty Jorasses. A m\u011blo to takov\u00fd efekt, \u017ee jsem nezvracel. Pokud nem\u00e1te par\u0165\u00e1ka na lezen\u00ed u\u017e na za\u010d\u00e1tku cesty, tak si p\u0159i cest\u011b do Alp vezm\u011bte t\u0159eba&nbsp;pr\u016fvodce IVBV. Ten v\u00e1s provede leh\u010d\u00edmi cestami, jeho sledov\u00e1n\u00edm se nau\u010d\u00edte ji\u0161t\u011bn\u00ed p\u0159i soub\u011b\u017en\u00e9m postupu, pou\u017e\u00edv\u00e1n\u00ed ledovcov\u00fdch \u0161roub\u016f atd.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"h-pohyb-v-ledovcovem-terenu\">Pohyb v ledovcov\u00e9m ter\u00e9nu<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p>Alpy jsou tak\u00e9 dobrou \u0161kolou pro rychl\u00fd pohyb v ledovcov\u00e9m ter\u00e9nu. Jde tak\u00e9 o to nau\u010dit se vyu\u017e\u00edvat denn\u00ed dobu k omezen\u00ed nebezpe\u010d\u00ed \u010d\u00edhaj\u00edc\u00edch na ledovci nebo si d\u00e1vat pozor na o\u010di a poko\u017eku obli\u010deje. Alpsk\u00e9 slunce m\u016f\u017ee do\u010dasn\u011b oslepit a zp\u016fsobit efektn\u00ed polept\u00e1n\u00ed obli\u010deje. Alpy jsou tak\u00e9 dobrou \u0161kolou pro \u00fasporn\u00e9 balen\u00ed batohu, aby se tam ve\u0161lo v\u0161e pot\u0159ebn\u00e9. Tyto hory v\u00e1s tak\u00e9 nau\u010d\u00ed p\u0159edev\u0161\u00edm pokro\u010dil\u00e9 (metodou pokus\u016f a omyl\u016f) znalosti toho, co pot\u0159ebujete. P\u0159i jednom v\u00fdstupu v Alp\u00e1ch jsem si kv\u016fli chyb\u011b p\u0159i balen\u00ed (oba batohy m\u011bly stejnou barvu) vzal m\u00edsto lahv\u00ed na vodu fotoapar\u00e1ty. Z\u0159ejm\u011b tak\u00e9 pot\u0159eba, ale p\u00edt jsem nemohl.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>P\u0159esto\u017ee je v Alp\u00e1ch hust\u00e1 s\u00ed\u0165 horsk\u00fdch chat a neobsluhovan\u00fdch \u00fatulen, m\u016f\u017eete si dovolit str\u00e1vit noc ve stanu t\u00edm, \u017ee budete praktikovat pl\u00e1novan\u00e9 bivakov\u00e1n\u00ed v hor\u00e1ch. Nepl\u00e1novan\u00e9 bivakov\u00e1n\u00ed se nedoporu\u010duje. Nic p\u0159\u00edjemn\u00e9ho a jedn\u00e1 se sp\u00ed\u0161e o v\u00fdsledek na\u0161ich \u0161patn\u00fdch rozhodnut\u00ed ne\u017e v\u00fdsledek dobr\u00fdch horsk\u00fdch praktik. V\u00fd\u0161kov\u00e9 horolezectv\u00ed v Alp\u00e1ch je tak\u00e9 dobrou p\u0159\u00edle\u017eitost\u00ed zjistit, co v\u00e1s bol\u00ed a co si vz\u00edt jako sou\u010d\u00e1st l\u00e9k\u00e1rni\u010dky do hor. Proto\u017ee na za\u010d\u00e1tku si vezmeme placatku s p\u00e1lenkou a na konci si vezmeme optim\u00e1ln\u00ed sadu l\u00e9k\u016f. Mo\u017en\u00e1 jsem n\u011bco vynechal, ale to, co jsem napsal, u\u017e v\u00e1m d\u00e1v\u00e1 pr\u016fchod, abyste se pod\u00edvali dop\u0159edu. Proto\u017ee za prv\u00e9 u\u017e v\u00edte, jestli v\u00e1m nadmo\u0159sk\u00e1 v\u00fd\u0161ka slou\u017e\u00ed. Za druh\u00e9 u\u017e v\u00edte, jak se rychle pohybovat v ledovcov\u00e9m ter\u00e9nu ve spr\u00e1vnou denn\u00ed dobu. Za t\u0159et\u00ed, v\u00edte, jak se sbalit (podrobn\u00fd seznam najdete v \u010dl\u00e1nku <a href=\"https:\/\/8a.cz\/8academy\/co-s-sebou-na-vypravu-do-velehor\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Co s sebou na v\u00fdpravu do velehor<\/a>). No, je \u010das na dal\u0161\u00ed krok.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"600\" height=\"900\" src=\"https:\/\/8a.pl\/8academy\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/IMG_1302.jpg\" alt=\"V\u00fd\u0161kov\u00e9 horolezectv\u00ed\" class=\"wp-image-52490\" srcset=\"https:\/\/8a.cz\/8academy\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/IMG_1302.jpg 600w, https:\/\/8a.cz\/8academy\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/IMG_1302-200x300.jpg 200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Zvl\u00e1d\u00e1 va\u0161e t\u011blo nadmo\u0159skou v\u00fd\u0161ku dob\u0159e? To je n\u011bco, co si mus\u00edte ov\u011b\u0159it, ne\u017e se vyd\u00e1te do vy\u0161\u0161\u00edch hor. (foto: Marmot \u2013 Piotr Pustelnik)<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"h-vyskove-horolezectvi-v-pamiru\">V\u00fd\u0161kov\u00e9 horolezectv\u00ed v Pam\u00edru<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>Kam d\u00e1l? Op\u011bt pou\u017eiji vlastn\u00ed p\u0159\u00edklad. J\u00e1 jsem se po jedn\u00e9 vysokohorsk\u00e9 epizod\u011b vydal do Pam\u00edru. Usoudil jsem, \u017ee kdy\u017e m\u00e1m horolezeck\u00e9 dovednosti na dostate\u010dn\u00e9 \u00farovni, m\u011bl bych se nau\u010dit p\u0159e\u017e\u00edt v hor\u00e1ch vy\u0161\u0161\u00edch ne\u017e Alpy. K tomu by se mi mohlo hodit pr\u00e1v\u011b poho\u0159\u00ed Pam\u00edr. Hory jsou o dimenzi v\u011bt\u0161\u00ed ne\u017e Alpy, nejsou tam \u017e\u00e1dn\u00e9 chaty, m\u00edstn\u00ed obyvatel\u00e9 jsou daleko v \u00fadol\u00edch, tak\u017ee jste na v\u0161echno sami. Pro za\u010d\u00e1tek je to trochu moc, tak\u017ee mo\u017en\u00e1 za\u010dn\u011bte zn\u00e1m\u00fdmi horami jako Pik Lenina, Pik Somoni nebo <a href=\"https:\/\/8a.cz\/8academy\/chan-tengri-krasny-a-riskantni\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Chan Tengri<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"h-organizace-vicedenni-expedice\">Organizace v\u00edcedenn\u00ed expedice<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p>Je tam trochu v\u00edce lid\u00ed, pocit samoty nehroz\u00ed, jen si mus\u00edte d\u00e1vat pozor na kuchyni v z\u00e1kladn\u00edm t\u00e1boru. M\u016f\u017ee b\u00fdt \u0161kodliv\u00e1 pro \u017ealudek. A v\u00e1\u017en\u011b, nau\u010d\u00edme se tam, jak se chovat na v\u00edcedenn\u00edch v\u00fdprav\u00e1ch, co\u017e je pak ve vysok\u00fdch hor\u00e1ch normou. Zdokonalov\u00e1n\u00ed technick\u00fdch dovednost\u00ed jsme na chv\u00edli odlo\u017eili stranou. U\u010d\u00edme se zakl\u00e1dat t\u00e1bory (tj. stav\u011bt <a href=\"https:\/\/8a.cz\/turisticke-stany\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">stany<\/a>&nbsp;na bezpe\u010dn\u00fdch m\u00edstech) a tr\u00e1vit v nich dny a noci. Procvi\u010dujeme si tak\u00e9 va\u0159en\u00ed a, co\u017e je d\u016fle\u017eit\u00e9, ale m\u00e1lo pov\u0161imnut\u00e9, pobyt v del\u0161\u00ed samot\u011b s partnerem. Kdy\u017e jste toti\u017e s n\u011bk\u00fdm dlouho, bu\u010f si zvyknete a p\u0159ijmete v\u0161echny jeho man\u00fdry, nebo ho zabijete a zahrabete do sn\u011bhu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"600\" height=\"900\" src=\"https:\/\/8a.pl\/8academy\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/20180405_0044.jpg\" alt=\"velehory\" class=\"wp-image-52493\" srcset=\"https:\/\/8a.cz\/8academy\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/20180405_0044.jpg 600w, https:\/\/8a.cz\/8academy\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/20180405_0044-200x300.jpg 200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Velehory u\u010d\u00ed v\u00edcedenn\u00ed \u010dinnosti (foto: Marmot)<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n<p>Krom\u011b toho n\u00e1m v\u00fd\u0161kov\u00e9 horolezectv\u00ed v Pam\u00edru umo\u017en\u00ed setkat se se sn\u011bhov\u00fdmi a ledov\u00fdmi lavinami. Ne \u017ee by v Alp\u00e1ch \u017e\u00e1dn\u00e9 nebyly, ale ve vy\u0161\u0161\u00edch hor\u00e1ch jsou v\u011bt\u0161\u00ed, je jich v\u00edce a jsou \u010dast\u011bj\u0161\u00ed. Laviny maj\u00ed tak\u00e9 sv\u016fj specifick\u00fd \u010dasov\u00fd rytmus, kter\u00fd stoj\u00ed za to poznat. A op\u011bt, stejn\u011b jako v Alp\u00e1ch, za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1me lehk\u00fdmi cestami. Proto\u017ee nadmo\u0159sk\u00e1 v\u00fd\u0161ka o sob\u011b d\u00e1 tak\u00e9 v\u011bd\u011bt, a ne tak lehce jako v Alp\u00e1ch.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"h-vyskova-nemoc\">V\u00fd\u0161kov\u00e1 nemoc<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p>Je tak\u00e9 mo\u017en\u00e9 (ne nutn\u00e9, ale velmi pravd\u011bpodobn\u00e9) dostat v\u00fd\u0161kovou nemoc, co\u017e nen\u00ed p\u0159\u00edjemn\u00e9 ani bezpe\u010dn\u00e9. Nedoporu\u010duji proj\u00edt v\u00fd\u0161kovou nemoc\u00ed jako antidotum do budoucna. Neexistuje \u017e\u00e1dn\u00e9 pravidlo, kter\u00e9 by \u0159\u00edkalo, \u017ee kdy\u017e jste jednou pro\u0161li touto nep\u0159\u00edjemnost\u00ed, u\u017e se to nestane. Nikdy nev\u00edte, jak takov\u00e1 nemoc dopadne, a je \u0161koda v\u00e1\u017en\u011b onemocn\u011bt, v\u010detn\u011b riskov\u00e1n\u00ed \u017eivota. M\u011bl jsem \u0161t\u011bst\u00ed, \u017ee jsem onemocn\u011bl jednou a pak u\u017e dvacet let ne, ale \u017e\u00e1dn\u00e9 pravidlo neexistuje.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Ur\u010dit\u011b je t\u0159eba <a href=\"https:\/\/8a.cz\/lekarnicky\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">l\u00e9k\u00e1rni\u010dku<\/a> doplnit, vzhledem k t\u00e9, kter\u00e1 se pou\u017e\u00edv\u00e1 v Alp\u00e1ch, o l\u00e9ky doporu\u010den\u00e9 k tomuto \u00fa\u010delu l\u00e9ka\u0159i. Poj\u010fme si tedy v rychlosti shrnout, s jak\u00fdmi dovednostmi se z Pam\u00edru odj\u00ed\u017ed\u00ed. Za prv\u00e9, v\u00edte, jak se zorganizovat na v\u00edcedenn\u00ed v\u00fdstup. Za druh\u00e9: v\u00edte, kde postavit t\u00e1bor a jak v n\u011bm p\u0159e\u017e\u00edt rozmary pam\u00edrsk\u00e9ho po\u010das\u00ed. A za t\u0159et\u00ed: povedete v\u00fdstupovou trasu na vrchol co nejd\u00e1le od nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00edch nebezpe\u010d\u00ed (laviny, trhliny, skaln\u00ed \u0159\u00edcen\u00ed). Za \u010dtvrt\u00e9: absolvujete test v\u00fd\u0161kov\u00e9 tolerance. Za p\u00e1t\u00e9: bezpe\u010dn\u011b se vr\u00e1t\u00edte.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"600\" height=\"900\" src=\"https:\/\/8a.pl\/8academy\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/08\/FtoGg11g.jpg\" alt=\"V\u00fd\u0161kov\u00e9 horolezectv\u00ed\" class=\"wp-image-52503\" srcset=\"https:\/\/8a.cz\/8academy\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/08\/FtoGg11g.jpg 600w, https:\/\/8a.cz\/8academy\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/08\/FtoGg11g-200x300.jpg 200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Zku\u0161enosti, kter\u00e9 z\u00edsk\u00e1te ve st\u00e1le vy\u0161\u0161\u00edch hor\u00e1ch, se v\u00e1m vyplat\u00ed na vrcholech va\u0161ich sn\u016f (foto: Marmot \u2013 Piotr Pustelnik)<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"h-co-dal\">Co d\u00e1l?<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>Jakmile si t\u00edm v\u0161\u00edm projdete a nenech\u00e1te se odradit, \u010dekaj\u00ed v\u00e1s v\u00fdzvy ve velehor\u00e1ch, abyste zm\u011b\u0159ili, co um\u00edte a o \u010dem sn\u00edte. Jednejte!!!<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Dob\u0159e. A co ty dal\u0161\u00ed typy p\u0159\u00edjemc\u016f tohoto textu zm\u00edn\u011bn\u00e9 v \u00favodu? Pro horolezce, kte\u0159\u00ed hledaj\u00ed sv\u00e9 m\u00edsto, m\u00e1m jen jednu radu. Najd\u011bte si v m\u00e9m popisu m\u00edsto, kde jste se na\u0161li, a jd\u011bte d\u00e1l. Pro turisty m\u00e1m tak\u00e9 jednu radu. Hledejte takov\u00e9 outdoorov\u00e9 agentury, kter\u00e9 v\u00e1m nab\u00eddnou hory, o kter\u00fdch sn\u00edte. Piln\u011b dodr\u017eujte pravidla t\u011bchto z\u00e1jezd\u016f. Nemus\u00edte b\u00fdt prvn\u00ed na \u0159ad\u011b.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>PS:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Radami ohledn\u011b vybaven\u00ed jsem ve v\u00fd\u0161e uveden\u00e9m textu \u0161et\u0159il. Je to proto, \u017ee jsem hluboce p\u0159esv\u011bd\u010den, \u017ee v dne\u0161n\u00ed dob\u011b milovn\u00edci hor stejn\u011b za\u010d\u00ednaj\u00ed sv\u00e9 horsk\u00e9 vzd\u011bl\u00e1v\u00e1n\u00ed vybaven\u00edm, kter\u00e9ho je v obchodech dostatek. A samoz\u0159ejm\u011b kvete voyerismus, tedy pokukov\u00e1n\u00ed z fotek, co maj\u00ed na sob\u011b prof\u00edci.<\/p>\n\n\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Sn\u00edte o velehor\u00e1ch? Alpsk\u00e9 \u010dty\u0159tis\u00edcovky, pam\u00edrsk\u00e9 sedmitis\u00edcovky? Cht\u011bli byste za\u010d\u00edt sv\u00e9 dobrodru\u017estv\u00ed s v\u00fd\u0161kov\u00fdm horolezectv\u00edm? Piotr Pustelnik rad\u00ed, jak za\u010d\u00edt.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":72,"featured_media":52487,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[26080],"tags":[26092,26090,26087],"class_list":["post-52419","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-alpinismus","tag-alpinismus","tag-celorocni","tag-fejeton"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO Premium plugin v19.7 (Yoast SEO v25.7) - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>Co je v\u00fd\u0161kov\u00e9 horolezectv\u00ed? | 8academy<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"V\u00fd\u0161kov\u00e9 horolezectv\u00ed - chcete za\u010d\u00edt sv\u00e9 dobrodru\u017estv\u00ed s t\u00edmto sportem? 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Piotr Pustelnik rad\u00ed, jak za\u010d\u00edt s cestou do velehor.","robots":{"index":"index","follow":"follow","max-snippet":"max-snippet:-1","max-image-preview":"max-image-preview:large","max-video-preview":"max-video-preview:-1"},"canonical":"https:\/\/8a.cz\/8academy\/co-je-vyskove-horolezectvi\/","og_locale":"cs_CZ","og_type":"article","og_title":"Co je v\u00fd\u0161kov\u00e9 horolezectv\u00ed?","og_description":"V\u00fd\u0161kov\u00e9 horolezectv\u00ed - chcete za\u010d\u00edt sv\u00e9 dobrodru\u017estv\u00ed s t\u00edmto sportem? Piotr Pustelnik rad\u00ed, jak za\u010d\u00edt s cestou do velehor.","og_url":"https:\/\/8a.cz\/8academy\/co-je-vyskove-horolezectvi\/","og_site_name":"8academy.cz - horsk\u00fd a horolezeck\u00fd port\u00e1l pro aktivn\u00ed lidi","article_publisher":"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/obchod8acz\/","article_published_time":"2023-03-17T08:00:00+00:00","article_modified_time":"2023-08-25T08:08:08+00:00","og_image":[{"width":1200,"height":628,"url":"https:\/\/8a.cz\/8academy\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/8ACADEMY_FB_.jpg","type":"image\/jpeg"}],"author":"Piotr Pustelnik","twitter_card":"summary_large_image","twitter_misc":{"Napisane przez":"Piotr Pustelnik","Szacowany czas czytania":"12 minut"},"schema":{"@context":"https:\/\/schema.org","@graph":[{"@type":"WebPage","@id":"https:\/\/8a.cz\/8academy\/co-je-vyskove-horolezectvi\/","url":"https:\/\/8a.cz\/8academy\/co-je-vyskove-horolezectvi\/","name":"Co je v\u00fd\u0161kov\u00e9 horolezectv\u00ed? | 8academy","isPartOf":{"@id":"https:\/\/8a.cz\/8academy\/#website"},"primaryImageOfPage":{"@id":"https:\/\/8a.cz\/8academy\/co-je-vyskove-horolezectvi\/#primaryimage"},"image":{"@id":"https:\/\/8a.cz\/8academy\/co-je-vyskove-horolezectvi\/#primaryimage"},"thumbnailUrl":"https:\/\/8a.cz\/8academy\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/IMG_0122.jpg","datePublished":"2023-03-17T08:00:00+00:00","dateModified":"2023-08-25T08:08:08+00:00","author":{"@id":"https:\/\/8a.cz\/8academy\/#\/schema\/person\/c64931d5ccc47d1058eb6f050e104583"},"description":"V\u00fd\u0161kov\u00e9 horolezectv\u00ed - chcete za\u010d\u00edt sv\u00e9 dobrodru\u017estv\u00ed s t\u00edmto sportem? 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