{"id":23645,"date":"2022-05-11T09:00:00","date_gmt":"2022-05-11T07:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/8a.pl\/8academy\/?p=23645"},"modified":"2023-08-29T14:55:09","modified_gmt":"2023-08-29T12:55:09","slug":"lezecka-stupnice","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/8a.cz\/8academy\/lezecka-stupnice\/","title":{"rendered":"Lezeck\u00e1 stupnice – o co jde?"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

7c Nebo IX+. Nebo Xc. Pou\u017eit\u00ed b\u011bhem rozhovoru, s neznal\u00fdm nelezcem, jedn\u00e9 z \u00farovn\u00ed obt\u00ed\u017enosti z jedn\u00e9 ze stupnic obt\u00ed\u017enosti, pravd\u011bpodobn\u011b p\u0159im\u011bje nelezeck\u00e9ho partnera, aby se pokusil zm\u011bnit t\u00e9ma, nap\u0159\u00edklad na po\u010das\u00ed na p\u0159\u00ed\u0161t\u00ed v\u00edkend. Lezeck\u00e9 obt\u00ed\u017enosti vyj\u00e1d\u0159en\u00e9 symboly jsou pro nelezce \u0161pan\u011blskou vesnic\u00ed. Nen\u00ed se v\u0161ak \u010demu divit. Lezeck\u00fd sv\u011bt m\u00e1 sv\u00e1 specifika, a i jeho z\u00e1klady, jako je lezeck\u00e1 stupnice, jsou n\u011bkdy pro lidi z vn\u011bj\u0161\u00edho prost\u0159ed\u00ed t\u011b\u017eko pochopiteln\u00e1. A lezeck\u00e1 stupnice je \u00fapln\u011b z\u00e1kladn\u00ed pojem, jeden z prvn\u00edch, se kter\u00fdm se adept lezen\u00ed sezn\u00e1m\u00ed. Pro rekrea\u010dn\u00edho lezce je obt\u00ed\u017enost lezeck\u00e9 cesty informac\u00ed pot\u0159ebnou k tomu, aby zjistil, zda je schopen tuto cestu absolvovat, tedy zda stoj\u00ed za to ji vyzkou\u0161et (slangov\u011b: stoj\u00ed za to se k n\u00ed p\u0159ibl\u00ed\u017eit). Pro sportovn\u00ed lezce je \u010d\u00edslice v\u0161\u00edm: ur\u010duje formu i c\u00edl. M\u016f\u017eete parafr\u00e1zovat r\u010den\u00ed: \u0159ekni mi, kolik d\u011bl\u00e1\u0161, a j\u00e1 ti \u0159eknu, kdo jsi.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ale z\u00e1le\u017eitost s lezeck\u00fdmi stupnicemi nen\u00ed jednoduch\u00e1. Ve sv\u011bt\u011b existuje n\u011bkolik r\u016fzn\u00fdch syst\u00e9m\u016f hodnocen\u00ed obt\u00ed\u017enosti lezeck\u00fdch cest. Nav\u00edc lezeck\u00e9 cesty jsou hodnoceny jinak ne\u017e bouldry. N\u011bkter\u00e1 m\u011b\u0159\u00edtka jsou velmi lok\u00e1ln\u00ed, n\u011bkter\u00e1 jsou mezin\u00e1rodn\u00ed. Jin\u00e1 m\u011b\u0159\u00edtka se pou\u017e\u00edvaj\u00ed v hor\u00e1ch, jin\u00e1 ve skal\u00e1ch a jin\u00e1 p\u0159i lezen\u00ed v ledu. Stupnici lze samoz\u0159ejm\u011b p\u0159ev\u00e1d\u011bt, stejn\u011b jako m\u011bny. Ne v\u017edy je to v\u0161ak spolehliv\u00e9. Poj\u010fme se tedy pod\u00edvat na nej\u010dast\u011bji pou\u017e\u00edvan\u00e9 lezeck\u00e9 stupnice.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Pro
Pro sportovn\u00ed lezce je \u010d\u00edslice v\u0161\u00edm. (fot. Piotr Deska)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Co je to ta stupnice obt\u00ed\u017enosti?<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Jde o posouzen\u00ed obt\u00ed\u017enosti lezeck\u00e9 nebo boulderov\u00e9 cesty. Obvykle stupe\u0148 obt\u00ed\u017enosti ur\u010duje autor prvn\u00edho p\u0159echodu. N\u00e1ro\u010dnost cesty je ale do zna\u010dn\u00e9 m\u00edry subjektivn\u00ed a z\u00e1vis\u00ed nap\u0159\u00edklad na parametrech dan\u00e9ho lezce. P\u016fvodn\u00ed ocen\u011bn\u00ed je proto \u010dasto ov\u011b\u0159ov\u00e1no n\u00e1sledn\u00fdmi lezci. Pot\u00e9 m\u016f\u017ee b\u00fdt hodnocen\u00ed zv\u00fd\u0161eno nebo sn\u00ed\u017eeno. Pro m\u00e9n\u011b znal\u00e9 lezen\u00ed m\u016f\u017ee vyvstat ot\u00e1zka: co ovliv\u0148uje ohodnocen\u00ed lezeck\u00e9 cesty? Obt\u00ed\u017enost ur\u010duje hlavn\u011b kvalita chyt\u016f a stup\u00ednk\u016f, obt\u00ed\u017enost pohyb\u016f, skaln\u00ed \u00fatvar.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Budou lezeck\u00e9 cesty stejn\u00e9ho ocen\u011bn\u00ed na r\u016fzn\u00fdch m\u00edstech stejn\u011b obt\u00ed\u017en\u00e9? Ne. Nap\u0159\u00edklad 8a v kolm\u00e9 st\u011bn\u011b a 8a v p\u0159evisu budou m\u00edt \u00fapln\u011b jin\u00e9 sestavy chyt\u016f. Nav\u00edc i cesty podobn\u00e9ho charakteru a ohodnocen\u00ed mohou m\u00edt r\u016fzn\u00e9 obt\u00ed\u017ee. Existuj\u00ed lezeck\u00e9 oblasti, kde je \u201e\u010d\u00edslice\u201c velmi obt\u00ed\u017en\u00e1 a n\u00e1ro\u010dn\u00e1, a tak\u00e9 m\u00edsta, kde v\u0161ichni lezci v\u011bd\u00ed, \u017ee stupnice obt\u00ed\u017enosti je a\u017e p\u0159\u00edli\u0161 n\u00edzk\u00e1. 8a v p\u00edskovci bude m\u00edt obt\u00ed\u017ee jin\u00e9 povahy ne\u017e 8a ve v\u00e1penci. Je to je\u0161t\u011b komplikovan\u011bj\u0161\u00ed: pro dva r\u016fzn\u00e9 lidi lezouc\u00ed na stejn\u00e9 \u00farovni m\u016f\u017ee m\u00edt cesta r\u016fzn\u00e9 obt\u00ed\u017enosti. Jsou z\u00e1visl\u00e9 na osobn\u00edch preferenc\u00edch, v\u00fd\u0161ce, siln\u00fdch a slab\u00fdch str\u00e1nk\u00e1ch dan\u00e9ho lezce. Ale v tom je pr\u00e1v\u011b kr\u00e1sa lezen\u00ed. To nen\u00ed matematika.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Stupnice obt\u00ed\u017enosti lezeck\u00fdch cest<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Stupnice UIAA a tatransk\u00e1 stupnice obt\u00ed\u017enosti<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Je matkou v\u0161ech stupnic obt\u00ed\u017enosti, kterou zalo\u017eila Union Internationale des Associations d’Alpinisme v 19. stolet\u00ed a vyjad\u0159uje se \u0159\u00edmsk\u00fdmi \u010d\u00edslicemi a znam\u00e9nkem plus a m\u00ednus. Stupnice UIAA se pou\u017e\u00edv\u00e1 hlavn\u011b v hor\u00e1ch. Jej\u00ed verz\u00ed, siln\u011b shodnou s prototypem, je tatransk\u00e1 stupnice, pou\u017e\u00edvan\u00e1 v Tatr\u00e1ch. Prvn\u00ed stupn\u011b obt\u00ed\u017enosti jsou n\u00e1sleduj\u00edc\u00ed:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    \n
  • I – lehk\u00e9: <\/strong>tady mo\u017en\u00e1 budete muset pou\u017e\u00edt ruce, ale hlavn\u011b kv\u016fli udr\u017een\u00ed rovnov\u00e1hy.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  • II \u2013 m\u00edrn\u011b t\u011b\u017ek\u00e9: <\/strong>bude nutn\u00e9 pou\u017e\u00edt ob\u011b ruce – s t\u00edmto stupn\u011bm obt\u00ed\u017enosti se st\u00e1le lze setkat na nejn\u00e1ro\u010dn\u011bj\u0161\u00edch m\u00edstech v Tatr\u00e1ch p\u0159i v\u00fdstupu na vrcholy. Obt\u00ed\u017enost lze p\u0159irovnat k lezen\u00ed po \u017eeb\u0159\u00edku.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  • III – t\u011b\u017ek\u00e9<\/strong>: lze pova\u017eovat za za\u010d\u00e1tek lezen\u00ed.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  • IV – velmi t\u011b\u017ek\u00e9:<\/strong> adepti lezen\u00ed dosahuj\u00ed tohoto stupn\u011b nej\u010dast\u011bji b\u011bhem kurz\u016f.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  • V – neoby\u010dejn\u011b t\u011b\u017ek\u00e9<\/strong><\/li>\n\n\n\n
  • VI – mimo\u0159\u00e1dn\u011b t\u011b\u017ek\u00e9<\/strong><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n

    Prvn\u00ed \u201e\u0161estkou\u201d v Polsk\u00fdch Tatr\u00e1ch je Cesta Dzi\u0119dzielewicza na Kostelci, kter\u00e1 vznikla v roce 1939. Pro prvn\u00ed polovinu 20. stolet\u00ed sta\u010dila v\u00fd\u0161e uveden\u00e1 stupnice k popisu obt\u00ed\u017enosti lezen\u00ed. V prvn\u00edch desetilet\u00edch 20. stolet\u00ed si horolezci nep\u0159edstavovali, \u017ee je mo\u017en\u00e9 ud\u011blat n\u011bco t\u011b\u017e\u0161\u00edho, ne\u017e co je v UIAA a Tatransk\u00e9 stupnici pova\u017eov\u00e1no za \u201emimo\u0159\u00e1dn\u011b obt\u00ed\u017en\u00e9\u201c. Ale m\u011b\u0159\u00edtko je otev\u0159en\u00e9. Aktu\u00e1ln\u011b nejt\u011b\u017e\u0161\u00ed cesty sv\u011bta osciluj\u00ed kolem XII. stupn\u011b. Stupnice UIAA se pou\u017e\u00edv\u00e1 i v n\u011bkter\u00fdch skalnat\u00fdch oblastech, nap\u0159\u00edklad ve Frankenju\u0159e.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    <\/p>\n\n\n

    \n
    \"Stupnice
    Stupnice UIAA se pou\u017e\u00edv\u00e1 hlavn\u011b na hor\u00e1ch (fot. Piotr Deska)<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

    Francouzsk\u00e1 stupnice obt\u00ed\u017enosti<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

    Toto je stupnice, kter\u00e1 dominuje v\u011bt\u0161in\u011b skalnat\u00fdch oblast\u00ed Evropy. Francie je toti\u017e kol\u00e9bkou sportovn\u00edho lezen\u00ed, jak jej dnes ch\u00e1peme. Francouzsk\u00e9 m\u011b\u0159\u00edtko je m\u011b\u0159\u00edtkem mezin\u00e1rodn\u00edm \u2013 najdeme ho ve v\u011bt\u0161in\u011b evropsk\u00fdch region\u016f, ale i v m\u00edstech tak vzd\u00e1len\u00fdch jako je nap\u0159\u00edklad Thajsko nebo exotick\u00fdch jako Maroko nebo Madagaskar. Francouzsk\u00e1 stupnice je vyj\u00e1d\u0159ena arabskou \u010d\u00edslic\u00ed a p\u00edsmeny a, b, c.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Do obt\u00ed\u017enosti 6 ji lze srovn\u00e1vat s v\u00fd\u0161e uvedenou stupnic\u00ed UIAA. Klobouk dol\u016f p\u0159ed t\u00edm, kdo dok\u00e1\u017ee rozli\u0161it 4b od 4c. Proto ji m\u016f\u017eeme za\u010d\u00edt p\u0159esn\u011b pou\u017e\u00edvat teprve od \u201e\u0161estky\u201c. Pro nepokro\u010dil\u00e9ho lezce m\u016f\u017ee b\u00fdt rozd\u00edl mezi 6a a 6b v\u00fdznamn\u00fd. Pro v\u011bt\u0161\u00ed p\u0159esnost ocen\u011bn\u00ed se, stejn\u011b jako ve v\u00fd\u0161e uveden\u00fdch stupnic\u00edch, tak\u00e9 ve francouzsk\u00e9 stupnici p\u0159id\u00e1v\u00e1 \u201e+\u201c. Pokud dan\u00fd stupe\u0148 obt\u00ed\u017enosti znamen\u00e1 konec na\u0161ich lezeck\u00fdch schopnost\u00ed, pak by \u010d\u00edslo \u201e+\u201c m\u011blo b\u00fdt d\u016fle\u017eitou informac\u00ed. P\u0159id\u00e1n\u00ed \u201eplus\u201c k na\u0161emu \u201e\u017eivotn\u00edmu rekordu\u201c m\u016f\u017ee st\u00e1t hodn\u011b \u00fasil\u00ed a p\u0159i vy\u0161\u0161\u00edch stupn\u00edch obt\u00ed\u017enosti se st\u00e1t dokonce nemo\u017en\u00fdm.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    <\/p>\n\n\n

    \n
    \"Bartek
    Bartek Sabela na cest\u011b JSFK 7c+ ve slovinsk\u00e9m Ospu (fot. Piotrek Deska)<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

    Sask\u00e1 stupnice obt\u00ed\u017enosti<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

    Jde o stupnici, kter\u00e1 vznikla v n\u011bmeck\u00e9m Sasku na konci 19. stolet\u00ed a pou\u017e\u00edv\u00e1 se pouze v p\u00edskovci. Trasy ohodnocen\u00e9 v sask\u00e9m m\u011b\u0159\u00edtku najdeme jak v N\u011bmecku, tak v \u010cesk\u00e9 republice (Adr\u0161pach, Teplice, Labsk\u00e9 \u00fadol\u00ed), ale tak\u00e9 v polsk\u00fdch p\u00edskovc\u00edch ve Stolov\u00fdch hor\u00e1ch. Vyjad\u0159uje se \u0159\u00edmskou \u010d\u00edslic\u00ed a p\u00edsmeny a, b, c. Sask\u00e1 stupnice je mimo\u0159\u00e1dn\u011b specifick\u00e1, proto\u017ee odr\u00e1\u017e\u00ed povahu lezen\u00ed v p\u00edskovci \u2013 \u00fapln\u011b jin\u00e9 ne\u017e ve v\u00e1penci nebo \u017eule. Obvykle je prvn\u00ed n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bva p\u00edskovc\u016f velmi siln\u00fdm p\u0159ekvapen\u00edm: pro\u010d je to tady tak t\u011b\u017ek\u00e9?! Na za\u010d\u00e1tku m\u011bla sask\u00e1 stupnice pouze t\u0159i stupn\u011b obt\u00ed\u017enosti. V roce 1906 se rozrostla na sedm stup\u0148\u016f, p\u0159i\u010dem\u017e ka\u017ed\u00fd dal\u0161\u00ed stupe\u0148 je od n\u00ed odd\u011blen p\u00edsmeny. Nejobt\u00ed\u017en\u011bj\u0161\u00ed odhadovan\u00e1 trasa v tomto m\u011b\u0159\u00edtku je XIIb.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    <\/p>\n\n\n

    \n
    \"Bartek
    Bartek Sabela na cest\u011b Bezzub\u00fd Yuchen IXc v \u010desk\u00e9m p\u00edskovci (fot. Filip Kucharczuk)<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

    Stupnice obt\u00ed\u017enosti lezeck\u00fdch tras mimo Evropu<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

    V\u00fd\u0161e popsan\u00e9 lezeck\u00e9 stupnice se pou\u017e\u00edvaj\u00ed p\u0159edev\u0161\u00edm v Evrop\u011b. Na Britsk\u00fdch ostrovech najdeme britskou stupnici – mo\u017en\u00e1 nejslo\u017eit\u011bj\u0161\u00ed ze v\u0161ech. Jde o unik\u00e1tn\u00ed stupnici – jako jedin\u00e1 se skl\u00e1d\u00e1 ze dvou \u010d\u00e1st\u00ed: z p\u0159\u00eddavn\u00e9 a \u010d\u00edseln\u00e9 stupnice a popisuje jak technickou n\u00e1ro\u010dnost trasy, tak i jej\u00ed “obt\u00ed\u017enost”, tedy i jej\u00ed psychick\u00e9 obt\u00ed\u017ee. Pou\u017e\u00edv\u00e1 se toti\u017e v britsk\u00fdch p\u00edskovc\u00edch, kde plat\u00ed specifick\u00e1 etick\u00e1 pravidla a ji\u0161t\u011bn\u00ed je n\u011bkdy velmi slab\u00e9.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    V z\u00e1mo\u0159\u00ed se ve 30. letech 20. stolet\u00ed pou\u017e\u00edval Yosemitsk\u00fd desetinn\u00fd syst\u00e9m (YDS). Zapisuje se jako \u010d\u00edslice 5 a n\u00e1sledn\u00e9 \u010d\u00edslice od 1 do 15. Ka\u017ed\u00fd stupe\u0148 je nav\u00edc rozd\u011blen p\u00edsmeny a, b, c, d. Nap\u0159\u00edklad: 5.12c. Zaj\u00edmav\u00e1 je stupnice australsk\u00e1. Jsou to jen \u010d\u00edsla od 7 do 35. Svou stupnici m\u00e1 i Braz\u00edlie a Ji\u017en\u00ed Afrika.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Stupnice obt\u00ed\u017enosti boulderu<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

    Samostatnou kapitolou jsou stupnice obt\u00ed\u017enosti pou\u017e\u00edvan\u00e9 v boulderingu. Jde o velmi specifickou a atletickou formu lezen\u00ed, kterou lze jen t\u011b\u017eko srovn\u00e1vat se sportovn\u00edm lezen\u00edm nebo horolezectv\u00edm. Je to v\u0161ak o to jednodu\u0161\u0161\u00ed, \u017ee v boulderingu m\u00e1me na sv\u011bt\u011b v podstat\u011b jen dv\u011b dominantn\u00ed stupnice. Prvn\u00ed boulderov\u00e1 stupnice byla stupnice vytvo\u0159en\u00e1 Johnem Gillem, pr\u016fkopn\u00edkem boulderingu. M\u011bla pouze t\u0159i stupn\u011b \u201eB1, B2 a B3. Posledn\u00ed stupe\u0148 byl vyhrazen probl\u00e9m\u016fm, kter\u00e9, i p\u0159es pokusy mnoha horolezc\u016f, m\u011bly pouze jeden pr\u016fchod.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Dnes se v z\u00e1mo\u0159\u00ed pou\u017e\u00edv\u00e1 stupnice Verm vytvo\u0159en\u00e1 Johnem Vermem Shermannem. Jedn\u00e1 se o p\u00edsmeno V a n\u00e1sledn\u00e1 \u010d\u00edsla od 0 do 16. Vermova stupnice se pou\u017e\u00edv\u00e1 v Severn\u00ed Americe, Ji\u017en\u00ed Africe a Austr\u00e1lii.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    V Evrop\u011b jsou balvany oce\u0148ov\u00e1ny na stupnici Fontainebleau, zkr\u00e1cen\u011b Font. Vizu\u00e1ln\u011b jde v podstat\u011b o kopii francouzsk\u00e9 stupnice s mal\u00fdm rozd\u00edlem: u \u010d\u00edslice je pou\u017eito velk\u00e9 p\u00edsmeno. Nap\u0159\u00edklad: 7C +. Tato stupnice je tak\u00e9 \u201eposunut\u00e1\u201c ve vztahu ke stupnici pou\u017e\u00edvan\u00e9 pro oce\u0148ov\u00e1n\u00ed cest. Bouldery se toti\u017e obvykle pot\u00fdkaj\u00ed s velmi kr\u00e1tkou, ale intenzivn\u00ed s\u00e9ri\u00ed obt\u00ed\u017e\u00ed. Tento posun je v\u0161ak orienta\u010dn\u00ed. Dob\u0159e je ilustruje konec obou stupnic: nejt\u011b\u017e\u0161\u00ed boulder m\u00e1 aktu\u00e1ln\u011b 8C +, cesta 9c.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    <\/p>\n\n\n

    \n
    \"Bouldering
    Bouldering pou\u017e\u00edv\u00e1 stupnici Verm a Font (fot. Black Diamond)<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

    Lezeck\u00e9 obt\u00ed\u017ee \u2013 m\u016f\u017ee se hodnocen\u00ed m\u011bnit?<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

    Stoj\u00ed za zm\u00ednku, \u017ee obt\u00ed\u017enost dan\u00e9 trasy m\u016f\u017ee b\u00fdt subjektivn\u00ed, tzn. jej\u00ed autor provedl ocen\u011bn\u00ed podle vlastn\u00edho uv\u00e1\u017een\u00ed. Lze to br\u00e1t pouze jako n\u00e1vrh, proto v p\u0159\u00edpad\u011b n\u011bkter\u00fdch lezeck\u00fdch cest doch\u00e1z\u00ed ke zm\u011bn\u011b jejich hodnocen\u00ed. U star\u0161\u00edch nebo obl\u00edben\u00fdch cest m\u016f\u017eeme p\u0159edpokl\u00e1dat, \u017ee ocen\u011bn\u00ed je dob\u0159e zaveden\u00e9. U m\u00e9n\u011b frekventovan\u00fdch nebo nov\u00fdch se m\u016f\u017eete setkat s p\u0159ekvapen\u00edm. D\u016fle\u017eit\u00fd je i samotn\u00fd charakter cesty. Jednomu lezci se dan\u00e1 formace nel\u00edb\u00ed, jin\u00fd se na c\u00edt\u00ed jako ryba ve vod\u011b. \u010cast\u011bj\u0161\u00ed jsou cesty, kde je to pro vy\u0161\u0161\u00ed lezce jednodu\u0161\u0161\u00ed, ale st\u00e1vaj\u00ed se i opa\u010dn\u00e9 situace. V\u0161echny tyto faktory mohou ovlivnit, jak vn\u00edm\u00e1m \u201esnadn\u00fd\u201c nebo \u201eobt\u00ed\u017en\u00fd\u201c stupe\u0148.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Obt\u00ed\u017enost lezeck\u00e9 cesty se m\u016f\u017ee zm\u011bnit i kv\u016fli p\u0159\u00edrod\u011b. Sta\u010d\u00ed, aby se zlomil kousek sk\u00e1ly nebo se utrhl chyt. Zaj\u00edmav\u00e9 je, \u017ee na sv\u011bt\u011b existuj\u00ed cesty, kter\u00e9 jsou pova\u017eov\u00e1ny za historick\u00e9, a i kdy\u017e dnes v\u00edme, \u017ee jejich re\u00e1ln\u00e9 ohodnocen\u00ed je jin\u00e9 (v\u011bt\u0161inou vy\u0161\u0161\u00ed), st\u00e1le se pou\u017e\u00edv\u00e1 p\u016fvodn\u00ed ohodnocen\u00ed kv\u016fli respektu k autor\u016fm a historii v\u00fdstupu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    P\u0159epo\u010det lezeck\u00fdch stupnic<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

    Cel\u00fd \u017eivot leze\u0161 na Juru a poprv\u00e9 vyraz\u00ed\u0161 do Francie? Kolik je VI.4 na francouzsk\u00e9 stupnici? Stupnice obt\u00ed\u017enosti se daj\u00ed p\u0159epo\u010d\u00edtat – samoz\u0159ejm\u011b. Jedn\u00e1 se v\u0161ak o velmi orienta\u010dn\u00ed konverzn\u00ed pom\u011br. R\u016fzn\u00e1 m\u011b\u0159\u00edtka maj\u00ed r\u016fznou hustotu stup\u0148\u016f, proto\u017ee byly vytvo\u0159eny v r\u016fzn\u00fdch podm\u00ednk\u00e1ch, dob\u00e1ch a skal\u00e1ch. Zat\u00edmco p\u0159evod stupnic pou\u017e\u00edvan\u00fdch v oblastech se stejn\u00fdm typem skal (nap\u0159. v\u00e1pencov\u00e9 oblasti) m\u00e1 smysl, p\u0159evod nap\u0159\u00edklad Kurtzk\u00e9ho stupnice na saskou stupnici mus\u00ed zcela ur\u010dit\u011b skon\u010dit nezdarem. Ale i v r\u00e1mci v\u00e1pencov\u00fdch skal to m\u016f\u017ee b\u00fdt jinak, zvl\u00e1\u0161t\u011b na n\u00e1ro\u010dn\u011bj\u0161\u00edch cest\u00e1ch. Nap\u0159\u00edklad X- na n\u011bmeck\u00e9 Frankenju\u0159e (obl\u00edben\u00e9m m\u00edst\u011b mezi polsk\u00fdmi lezci) m\u016f\u017ee b\u00fdt bu\u010f francouzsk\u00e9 8a nebo 8a +. Jak jsem ji\u017e zm\u00ednil, pro v\u011bt\u0161inu lezc\u016f t\u00e9to \u00farovn\u011b m\u016f\u017ee b\u00fdt rozd\u00edl zna\u010dn\u00fd.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Proto rad\u011bji pova\u017euji p\u0159epo\u010det stupnic za \u010dist\u011b orienta\u010dn\u00ed. V\u00edm, ve kter\u00e9 oblasti si mohu dovolit l\u00e9zt na cest\u00e1ch, po kter\u00fdch bych jinde nelezl. Jsou tedy oblasti, jak jsem ji\u017e zm\u00ednil v\u00fd\u0161e, kter\u00e9 jsou pova\u017eov\u00e1ny za p\u0159\u00edv\u011btiv\u011bj\u0161\u00ed k tomu, abyste na nich ud\u011blali \u017eivotn\u00ed rekord, ale jsou tak\u00e9 oblasti, ke kter\u00fdm by \u010dlov\u011bk m\u011bl p\u0159istupovat s pokorou.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    <\/p>\n\n\n\n

    \"Lezeck\u00e9
    Lezeck\u00e9 obt\u00ed\u017ee – srovn\u00e1n\u00ed stupnice UIAA a francouzsk\u00e9 stupnice.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    Lezeck\u00e9 obt\u00ed\u017ee \u2013 na co je\u0161t\u011b nezapomenout?<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

    P\u0159i v\u00fdb\u011bru lezeck\u00e9 oblasti stoj\u00ed za to se o n\u00ed n\u011bco dozv\u011bd\u011bt. Jsou oblasti, kde je hodnocen\u00ed \u201ehrd\u00e9 a tvrd\u00e9\u201c, ale nov\u011bj\u0161\u00ed trasy maj\u00ed ji\u017e hodnocen\u00ed mnohem p\u0159\u00edv\u011btiv\u011bj\u0161\u00ed. A v jin\u00fdch oblastech je tomu naopak. Znalost t\u011bchto detail\u016f V\u00e1m umo\u017en\u00ed p\u0159ipravit se na zklam\u00e1n\u00ed nebo \u201enad\u0161en\u00ed z \u010d\u00edslice\u201c. A pr\u00e1v\u011b to se prom\u00edt\u00e1 do toho, zda budete pova\u017eovat v\u00fdlet za vyda\u0159en\u00fd, \u200b\u200bnebo takov\u00fd, ve kter\u00e9m n\u00e1m \u201epo\u010das\u00ed nedovolilo naplno vyu\u017e\u00edt na\u0161i senza\u010dn\u00ed tr\u00e9ninkovou p\u0159\u00edpravu\u201c. Dal\u0161\u00edm vod\u00edtkem je jm\u00e9no autora cesty – pokud se na to zam\u011b\u0159\u00edme, m\u016f\u017eeme o\u010dek\u00e1vat nestandardn\u00ed ocen\u011bn\u00ed a n\u011bkdy i ledabyl\u00fd p\u0159\u00edstup ke vzd\u00e1lenost mezi po sob\u011b jdouc\u00edmi jist\u00edc\u00edmi ringy.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    P\u0159\u00edstup lezc\u016f k hodnocen\u00ed je individu\u00e1ln\u00ed z\u00e1le\u017eitost\u00ed. \u010clov\u011bk se sportovn\u00edm n\u00e1dechem bude br\u00e1t ka\u017ed\u00e9 ohodnocen\u00ed velmi v\u00e1\u017en\u011b. Rekrea\u010dn\u00ed p\u0159\u00edstup k lezen\u00ed umo\u017e\u0148uje udr\u017eet si v\u011bt\u0161\u00ed odstup. Ka\u017ed\u00fd se rozhoduje s\u00e1m za sebe. Pokud to v\u0161ak s lezen\u00edm mysl\u00edte v\u00e1\u017en\u011b, stoj\u00ed za to si p\u0159ipomenout n\u00e1sleduj\u00edc\u00ed my\u0161lenku: “Na tuto trasu nejdu, proto\u017ee pokud ji zdol\u00e1m, tak to nebude \u017e\u00e1dn\u00e1 sl\u00e1va, a pokud spadnu, bude to velk\u00e1 ostuda.” Kolik pravdy je v t\u011bchto slovech? To v\u00ed jen lezci\u2026<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

    Nelezc\u016fm nen\u00ed snadn\u00e9 vysv\u011btlit v\u00a0\u010dem spo\u010d\u00edv\u00e1 obt\u00ed\u017enost lezen\u00ed. Nej\u010dast\u011bji se ptaj\u00ed na ot\u00e1zku: “jak vysoko jsi byl?” a srovn\u00e1vaj\u00ed v\u00fd\u0161ku s obt\u00ed\u017enost\u00ed. Horolezec m\u016f\u017ee odpov\u011bd\u011bt, \u017ee byl ve v\u00fd\u0161ce: 20, 30 nebo 40 metr\u016f, ale je zn\u00e1mo, \u017ee to na nelezce p\u0159\u00edli\u0161 velk\u00fd dojem neud\u011bl\u00e1.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":5,"featured_media":23771,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[11],"tags":[196,26090,26087,26058],"class_list":["post-23645","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-lezeni","tag-bouldering","tag-celorocni","tag-fejeton","tag-skalni-lezeni"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nLezeck\u00e1 stupnice - o co jde? | 8academy<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Lezeck\u00e1 stupnice - jak\u00e9 jsou stoup\u00e1n\u00ed obt\u00ed\u017enosti cest, jak se m\u011b\u0159\u00ed a pro\u010d jsou r\u016fzn\u00e9 stupnice? vysv\u011btlujeme.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/8a.cz\/8academy\/lezecka-stupnice\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"cs_CZ\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Trudno\u015bci wspinaczkowe - sprawd\u017a o co w nich chodzi! | 8academy\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Nale\u017cy uzna\u0107, i\u017c trudno\u015bci wspinaczkowe s\u0105 dla osoby postronnej abstrakcj\u0105. 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